Wednesday 25 May 2016

Native, Covent Garden, London

Scanning Time Out online for a new place to have lunch yesterday I came across Native in the 'Everyone's Talking About' section of their app.  A glowing report from Time Out reviewer, Tania Ballantine, encouraged me to stroll down to 3, Neal's Yard to find out for myself.


 Native is a first-restaurant venture for Imogen and Ivan who have gained lots of valuable experience doing street food and pop-ups but who also, in Imogen's words, are having to learn fast about running a restaurant.  If our experience yesterday is anything to go by then they are well placed on the road to success.


It was Imogen who warmly encouraged us into their small premises in the corner of Neal's Yard in Covent Garden.  There are a few tables at street level including bar seating which looks, not at a bar, but straight on to the cooking kitchen where you cannot fail to interact with the friendly staff.   There are more tables in the lower ground floor bringing the cover total to 32. 



Imogen suggested two seats at the kitchen which was great because we got to see most of the dishes being prepared and enjoyed discussing the finer points with Rob at the 'pass'. Their menu is small but perfectly formed with a range of country foods paired with somewhat unusual but interesting ingredients.  These included Wood Pigeon Kebab with Beet Hummus,Yoghurt, Pickled Cabbage and Harissa or Fallow Deer Steak with Cauliflower, Crispy Onions and Carrot.

I know this is a Seafood blog but I consider wild game to be on an equal par with fresh fish probably due to its natural origins, so forgive me if I indulge myself a bit.

We tried the Rabbit Dumplings with Smoked Bacon Dashi and Pickled Walnut.  This is great way to eat this underrated meat.  The meatballs were firm but tender with lovely flavour and made a great starter/small dish with the savoury Dashi and sweet Pickled Walnuts (which taste fruity like HP Sauce ).  Next we had the Slow Roast Cauliflower with Brown Butter and Wild Garlic which was amazing. The roasted cauli' had been seared in a pan and then laid on top of cauliflower puree.  I have never been vegetarian but this dish is a wholesome meat-alternative which is tasty and satisfying in its own right. 



Finally on to the fish which was Pan-fried Hake on Split Pea Dahl with a Cauliflower Leaf Pakora.  The fish was cooked to perfection by chef Peter who seemed genuinely pleased to get complimented on his skill.  As I always say the worst you can do to fresh fish is to overcook it and this beautifully fresh Hake fillet gleamed and glistened its whiteness from the plate contrasting with the yellow dahl.  The Cauliflower leaf (no waste here) Pakora was light and crispy and delicious. 



Accompanied by a crisp English white wine, Three Choirs Winchcombe Downs (Gloucester) 2013, together with great company, this was lunch with a difference which we look forward to experiencing again soon.