Crayfish at Stockholm, East Sheen, London

 Crayfish are the smaller, freshwater cousins of the lobster and are best eaten during the season between Spring and Autumn. I was fortunate to enjoy some recently at the Crayfish Festival held at the Stockholm restaurant in Sheen Lane, East Sheen, London SW14. 

Stockholm is a friendly, family run restaurant which operates as a deli/cafe during the day and a restaurant at night. Restaurant Manager, Majvor provides a warm welcome while husband Goran is Head Chef running the kitchen. Shelves laden with Scandinavian culinary delights adorn the walls of the restaurant which has a homely feel       with plenty of Swedish style. 

Majvor explained to me that they buy live crayfish direct from a supplier in the Cotswolds who export much of their produce to Sweden. They source Dill directly from Sweden where they grow the herb with a full flower head to provide better flavour. The resulting dish was amazing with the sweetness of the Crayfish enhanced by the aromatic flavour of the Dill. I look forward to returning to Stockholm to try some of their other Swedish fish delights including 'Home Cured Salmon with Creamed Dill Potato' and 'Herring Platter'.

Fresh Pike at Lake Garda, Italy

In the UK, the freshwater Pike is generally not considered to be a fish worth cooking and eating. Although popular centuries ago there is a perception here that the fish either has too many bones or that it will taste 'muddy'. In my opinion neither of these statements is true.  The northern pike (Esox lucius) is a species of carnivorous fish of the genus Esox (the pikes). They are typical of brackish and freshwaters of the northern hemisphere (i.e. holarctic in distribution).

Although generally known as a "sporting" quarry, some anglers release pike they have caught because the flesh is considered bony, especially due to the substantial (epipleural) "Y-bones". However, larger fish are more easily filleted, and pike have a long and distinguished history in cuisine and are popular fare in Europe. Historical references to cooking pike go as far back as the Romans.


I recently enjoyed 'Pike in the Old Recipe of the Lake' at  beautiful quayside restaurant on the banks of Lake Garda in Italy.  The restaurant, which is also a small hotel with amazing views, is called Lepanto and it is situated in the pretty town of Salo at the southern end of the lake. The fish was poached and flaked off the bone before serving with Capers and Polenta.  It had a delicious delicate flavour and a firm texture (similar to Hake).

Aqua Shard, London

The Shard, London

The Shard, designed by award winning architect, Renzo Piano, spans 72 floors and is the tallest building in Western Europe rising 310m (1016 ft) above the London skyline.

The two latest culinary offerings at the iconic Shard building in London are from the Hong Kong based Aqua restaurant group.  Aqua Shard reviewed here offers contemporary British cuisine from the 31st floor whereas Aqua Hutong (one floor up) is top quality Chinese.  

The location is undeniably stunning with incredible 360 degree views of London further enhanced by the use of copious glass and mirrors to provide a spacious and light interior with incredible views from almost every angle.  Attention to detail is obvious from table positioning to the use of glass walled 'private' dining areas to reduce noise but maximise light. Even the urinals in the Gents have been strategically placed to maximise the view !

Aqua Restaurant Group is the brainchild of ex-Credit Suisse Finance Lawyer, David Yeo and his silent partner, Richard Ward.  They now boast 21 restaurants spread across London, Hong Kong and Beijing, each featuring elegant decor and exciting venues in keeping with David's vision.  They have plans to open more as they move onwards and upwards from their humble beginnings in Hollywood Road, Hong Kong in 2000.  

Iconic settings can often lead to a disappointing eating experience whereby the venue draws the customers so the food is secondary.  However, in the case of Aqua Shard I can vouch that, in my experience, this is not the case.  Chef Anthony Garlando, protege of Michelin 3-star chef Pierre Gagnare, does not disappoint in terms of menu selection, presentation and flavour. We opted, of course, for seafood and I can honestly say that it was some of the best I have ever tasted so the elegant surroundings and stunning views were a real bonus.

Loch Duart Salmon

Grilled Octopus & Mackerel

For starters we had Confit of Loch Duart Salmon with Dorset Crab, Avocado, Pepper Puree, Courgette and Oscietra Caviar. Beautifully crafted it was a delight on the eye and on the palate.  The delicate flavour of this superb salmon combined perfectly with a generous quenelle of the crabmeat and the salty spark of the caviar.  Our other starter was Grilled Octopus and Scottish Mackerel with Tomato Sorbet, Pickled Shallots, Aubergine Dressing and Crispy Potato.  The flavours were more intense in this starter but the combination of the tomato sorbet with the lightly cooked mackerel was perfect and the texture of the grilled Octopus added yet another dimension to this flavourful dish.  The addition of fresh herbs such as Sorrel was another sign of Chef Garlando's skill.

Dover Sole

Roasted Halibut

Our mains were Roasted Halibut and Grilled Dover Sole. The halibut was served on a bed of cockles with pumpkin, Swiss chard and a grilled langoustine.  The Dover Sole was served on the bone but was perfectly skinned and trimmed.  It came with an interesting combination of cubes of Iberico ham, cuttlefish, broad beans and a light foamy sauce of Luscombe Devon Cider. The combination of sweet and salty worked well with the firm meaty texture of the sole.  




All-in-all Aqua Shard was a memorable experience which we would like to repeat soon.  Prices are what you would expect for an up-market restaurant but still represent value for money when you consider the quality.  The view is a real bonus for free !

Kaspar's Seafood Bar at The Savoy

Looking for a nice lunch in London last week I was intrigued to try Kaspar's, the new seafood restaurant at the Savoy Hotel.  I might have been put off initially by the scathing reviews published by Marina O'Loughlin (Guardian, 01/06/13) and Tracey Macleod (Independent 25/5/13).  However, I have learnt all to well over the years that reviews, good and bad, are written for a variety of reasons many of which have little to do with food. When restaurants first open it is not unusual for the service to suffer which is point number one for reviewers to get their teeth into.  Decor and ambience which is often highlighted can just be a question of personal taste and mood.  Marina and Tracey did not disappoint on either of these, proffering their opinions of the 'blingy' decor and the failure of the staff to deliver.  

I beg to disagree:  the restaurant is a modern glamourous space which manages to combine a traditional seafood bar, complete with green marble worktops and ice displays, with the art deco styling of the original Riverside Grill. Add to this a very contemporary 'shine' and you have Kaspar's.  No dress code and no stuffiness yet it is still a very smart and exciting space with plenty of buzz and atmosphere from enthusiastic diners and the staff preparing dishes behind the bar.  We were given a warm welcome on arrival and appreciated the attentive service throughout the meal.

Yellowfin Tuna Tartare

We opted for a couple of starters with a selection of Rock Oysters (from Jersey and West Mersea) and Yellowfin Tuna Tartare.  Our friendly waiter was helpful and knowledgeable explaining the subtle differences between the oysters whereby the Jersey's were sweeter and the Mersea's had more of a mineral finish.  The tuna was superbly fresh and served with a mild wasabi cream and crisp Melba Toast.  

Smoked Eel and Cured Fish

For main course my wife chose the Isle of Skye 1/2 lobster, grilled, with the garlic butter on the side, which at £19 is pretty reasonable. Chef James Pare explained that all the lobsters are delivered live each morning to ensure maximum freshness and quality.  It did not disappoint with its juicy texture and delicate flavour typical of good European lobster.  I have to question here Marina O'Loughlin's choice of the Lobster Club Sandwich for her review - probably not the best way to enjoy seafood.  I had a selection of smoked and cured fish which included Beetroot Cured Halibut, Citrus Cured Seabass, Smoked Eel and Star Anise Cured Salmon.  All were delicious, moist and flavourful making a nice 'raw' fish alternative to the seemingly ubiquitous sashimi and sushi in London nowadays.



All accompanied with a carafe of crisp Sauvignon Blanc followed by coffee and complimentary chocolate 'lollipops' it was a delicious lunch which was leisurely and special.  We will return.

Spaghetti with Clams at Zavial Beach, Portugal

Praia do Zavial is one of my favourite places in the world.  It is a stunning beach on the south west corner of the Algarve about 20 minutes drive west of Lagos.  Golden sand and crystal clear water combine to give a great place to relax in the summer sun or play in the surf. Although the surf is moderated by the southerly aspect there is a good point break to the western end of the beach which provides great sport for the serious surfer in the winter months.  Zavial is popular with bodyboarders of a high standard as demonstrated by Ivo and Neuza who work at the Zavial Beach Restaurant.




This restaurant is located at the western end of the beach where there is ample parking.  The view is stunning and it is a great place to have a drink/snack and to take in the view and the cool sounds of the chill-out music.  Lunchtime and evening meals focus of fresh produce carefully prepared and beautifully presented. 

 

Local fresh fish and shellfish are a speciality as displayed on the menu board.  

I opted for one of my favourites, Spaghetti with Clams, which is a Portuguese version of the Italian classic, Spaghetti Vongole.  Large juicy clams are cooked with garlic and herbs and then combined with butter and oil in the white spaghetti. Simply delicious !









If you are visiting the Algarve this year be sure to check out Praia do Zavial and all that it offers.  

Dogfish Recipes

Freshly caught dogfish

Skinned dogfish at market

Dogfish is one of those species often referred to as worthless by fisherman, so when my daughter caught one recently I tweeted (@seafoodreview) for recipes.  Fish at 85 Cardiff (@fishat85) offered the fish & chip 'classic' - deep fried in batter and also suggested fish curry. Of course you must skin and then fillet the fish first which is a great way to blunt your knives as dogfish skin is so tough having hundreds of backwards pointing dermodenticles (skin teeth). It is a firm fish which holds together well in curries, stews or bouillabaisse. In my opinion it must be very fresh as the flesh degrades quickly and the flavour becomes too strong. 

Seafood at Cin Cin, Barbados

Cocktail at Cin Cin Barbados

Cin Cin is a very stylish contemporary restaurant based in Prospect on the West Coast of Barbados in St. James district.  We turned up, without a reservation (although I recommend that you book, especially for dinner), at around 2pm and were warmly greeted in the car park by a guy who promptly took our keys to park the car and welcomed us into the foyer.  First impressions were the modern bar, white leather furniture and the stunning view of the ocean through the very large areas of glass.  It was lunchtime and not too busy so we were lucky enough to get a table on the terrace which is down at the water's edge.  Lunchtime dress code is relaxed so we were fine in our shorts and T-shirts.

  After a refreshing cocktail we had the Seared Tuna Nicoise Salad which was a modern take on this classic dish.  All the traditional components were there but they were presented imaginatively with a poached Quail's egg, a bundle of French Beans, baby new potatoes in mayonnaise and perfectly seared fresh Yellowfin Tuna. 


Main course was Kingfish (see note below) with a caper sauce on smooth leek and potato puree and seasonal vegetables. Our food was cooked to perfection and served beautifully so for me, Cin Cin is a 'must-visit' restaurant for anyone in Barbados.

(Kingfish or Wahoo (Acanthocybium solandri) is found worldwide in tropical and subtropical seas and the species as a whole is not considered overfished.  It is much prized by sports fishermen).