Moxon's Fishmonger, Islington, London

Looking for fresh fish in London ? You probably can't do much better than visiting Moxon's in Islington High St. They have an amazing selection of fresh fish and shellfish, sourced by their own specialists at Billingsgate and around the coast. They even have their own fish smoker for Mackerel, Kippers etc.

Islington Manager 'Kev' has a wealth of knowledge with regard to the origins of their produce, how to prepare it and great tips on cooking. But then again he used to be a chef and he is studying marine biology in his spare time. I watched him expertly guide an Italian customer, who had a typical European rapport with seafood, through his purchase of Sea Witch and fresh Octopus.


The shop offers a wide range of produce which included Fines de Claires native oysters, Pacific Oysters from Carlingford, live crab and lobsters, shiny wild Seabass and meaty Turbot.

I bought some Loch Duart Salmon fillet and some beautifully fresh whole Squid which Kev double bagged with an ice pack for me to get it home to Surrey in tip top condition.

Independent fishmongers with Kev's skill, knowledge and enthusiasm are about as rare as Common Skate (ie nearly extinct) so get yourself down to Moxons and sample the freshness of the sea in the heart of London. 

The Leconfield, Petworth

The Leconfield, Petworth, West Sussex

Leconfield Restaurant

We have been going to the Leconfield restaurant in Petworth, West Sussex since it first opened several years ago.  There have been many developments since that first visit.  Changes in house manager, chefs and staff training have lead to a better and better dining experience. One significant factor has been guidance from Pascal Proyart, Head Chef at One-o-One, which many (myself included) rate as the best seafood restaurant in London.


So I was really looking forward to dinner there last night.  Initial booking by telephone was pleasant and friendly and this theme continued when we arrived and were greeted by the House Manager and our waitress for the evening.  To our surprise we were told that they now had a new Head Chef who had started just one week before.  Previously Head Chef at The Aubergine restaurant in Marlow, Tim O'Shea now joins the team at the Leconfield and first impressions are very good.

Smoked Haddock Vichyssoise

Tim has managed to create new menus already and there was a sumptuous range on offer on the a la carte menu.  Not all seafood of course, but notable items included Carlingford Rock Oysters, Squid and Octopus Pancha and Baked Dover Sole.  However, we opted for the set menu which offered 2 courses for £25 or 3 courses for £30.  

Smoked haddock, potato, confit hen's egg

To start I ordered the Vichyssoise with Poached Haddock and New Potato. Traditionally this is a thick soup made from leeks, onions, potato, cream and chicken stock but Tim put a wonderful seafood slant to it.  The haddock was braised in milk beforehand and the milky fish-stock was added to the leek and potato mix.  Pieces of the braised haddock and new potato, together with confit hens egg, were presented on the soup plate and the Vichyssoise was added at the table.  The result was a cool, refreshing, creamy (but not rich) soup with subtle fish flavours.

Salmon Canneloni

Main course was the Salmon Cannelloni with Braised Fennel and Vermouth Cream.  Half of the salmon was whipped with cream into a smooth mousse before adding to the remainder in the canneloni.  Delicately braised fennel, star anise and the bold vermouth cream completed this meal perfectly to provide a delicate balance of firm flavours. 

Rounding off with the British and French Cheese with Fig Chutney and Fennel Lavash we enjoyed a lovely evening at the Leconfield.  Full marks for food and service; can this place get any better ? 

Slow Cooked Octopus at Andrew Edmunds

I have only written the title and already must own up to a mistruth.  I wasn't actually eating at Andrew Edmunds but was meeting a colleague for lunch in The Academy Club above the restaurant.  The food however, comes from the same kitchen so it's a fair assumption that the restaurant version is the same.

I chose the Slow Cooked Octopus with Tomatoes, Choritzo, Capers and Olives, starter size, as a light lunch with a plate of French bread to soak up the delicious juices.  I have cooked and eaten octopus many times and the secret of success for this flavoursome dish is the method of tenderising the meat. When I owned The Good Fish Shop, one of my customers who is Spanish, telephoned his mum (in Spain) for advice on tenderising octopus.  I was expecting a lot of bashing, stretching and sun-drying to be offered but no, her simple reply was 'freeze it for 24 hours'.  Andrew offered the same recommendation with one important addition 'thaw it out very slowly' i.e. 24 hours in the 'fridge.  The result was superb - generous portions of octopus (I'm sure the slow cooking helped too) in a rich hearty sauce with juicy pieces of chorizo and aromatic dark olives. I look forward to visiting Andrew Edmunds (the restaurant) for a full meal in the near future.

Aqua Shard, London

The Shard, London

The Shard, designed by award winning architect, Renzo Piano, spans 72 floors and is the tallest building in Western Europe rising 310m (1016 ft) above the London skyline.

The two latest culinary offerings at the iconic Shard building in London are from the Hong Kong based Aqua restaurant group.  Aqua Shard reviewed here offers contemporary British cuisine from the 31st floor whereas Aqua Hutong (one floor up) is top quality Chinese.  

The location is undeniably stunning with incredible 360 degree views of London further enhanced by the use of copious glass and mirrors to provide a spacious and light interior with incredible views from almost every angle.  Attention to detail is obvious from table positioning to the use of glass walled 'private' dining areas to reduce noise but maximise light. Even the urinals in the Gents have been strategically placed to maximise the view !

Aqua Restaurant Group is the brainchild of ex-Credit Suisse Finance Lawyer, David Yeo and his silent partner, Richard Ward.  They now boast 21 restaurants spread across London, Hong Kong and Beijing, each featuring elegant decor and exciting venues in keeping with David's vision.  They have plans to open more as they move onwards and upwards from their humble beginnings in Hollywood Road, Hong Kong in 2000.  

Iconic settings can often lead to a disappointing eating experience whereby the venue draws the customers so the food is secondary.  However, in the case of Aqua Shard I can vouch that, in my experience, this is not the case.  Chef Anthony Garlando, protege of Michelin 3-star chef Pierre Gagnare, does not disappoint in terms of menu selection, presentation and flavour. We opted, of course, for seafood and I can honestly say that it was some of the best I have ever tasted so the elegant surroundings and stunning views were a real bonus.

Loch Duart Salmon

Grilled Octopus & Mackerel

For starters we had Confit of Loch Duart Salmon with Dorset Crab, Avocado, Pepper Puree, Courgette and Oscietra Caviar. Beautifully crafted it was a delight on the eye and on the palate.  The delicate flavour of this superb salmon combined perfectly with a generous quenelle of the crabmeat and the salty spark of the caviar.  Our other starter was Grilled Octopus and Scottish Mackerel with Tomato Sorbet, Pickled Shallots, Aubergine Dressing and Crispy Potato.  The flavours were more intense in this starter but the combination of the tomato sorbet with the lightly cooked mackerel was perfect and the texture of the grilled Octopus added yet another dimension to this flavourful dish.  The addition of fresh herbs such as Sorrel was another sign of Chef Garlando's skill.

Dover Sole

Roasted Halibut

Our mains were Roasted Halibut and Grilled Dover Sole. The halibut was served on a bed of cockles with pumpkin, Swiss chard and a grilled langoustine.  The Dover Sole was served on the bone but was perfectly skinned and trimmed.  It came with an interesting combination of cubes of Iberico ham, cuttlefish, broad beans and a light foamy sauce of Luscombe Devon Cider. The combination of sweet and salty worked well with the firm meaty texture of the sole.  




All-in-all Aqua Shard was a memorable experience which we would like to repeat soon.  Prices are what you would expect for an up-market restaurant but still represent value for money when you consider the quality.  The view is a real bonus for free !