Moxon's Fishmonger, Islington, London

Looking for fresh fish in London ? You probably can't do much better than visiting Moxon's in Islington High St. They have an amazing selection of fresh fish and shellfish, sourced by their own specialists at Billingsgate and around the coast. They even have their own fish smoker for Mackerel, Kippers etc.

Islington Manager 'Kev' has a wealth of knowledge with regard to the origins of their produce, how to prepare it and great tips on cooking. But then again he used to be a chef and he is studying marine biology in his spare time. I watched him expertly guide an Italian customer, who had a typical European rapport with seafood, through his purchase of Sea Witch and fresh Octopus.


The shop offers a wide range of produce which included Fines de Claires native oysters, Pacific Oysters from Carlingford, live crab and lobsters, shiny wild Seabass and meaty Turbot.

I bought some Loch Duart Salmon fillet and some beautifully fresh whole Squid which Kev double bagged with an ice pack for me to get it home to Surrey in tip top condition.

Independent fishmongers with Kev's skill, knowledge and enthusiasm are about as rare as Common Skate (ie nearly extinct) so get yourself down to Moxons and sample the freshness of the sea in the heart of London. 

The Wheelhouse, Falmouth, Cornwall

If you love unadulterated, fresh-off-the-rocks shellfish, get yourself straight down to the Wheelhouse and it will not disappoint. Make sure you ring up to book first as this is a 'must-visit' destination in Cornwall and they only open Wednesday to Saturday.  Despite having no website, no twitter and no email they can be booked up for months ahead; especially in the Summer.  It's fame all comes down to word-of-mouth recommendations, which have to be the most reliable sources of real-life opinions when you think about it.

So, what is all the fuss about?  First and foremost it's the quality of the shellfish which is mainly locally sourced (apart from the prawns), extremely fresh and beautifully prepared.  Secondly it is the welcome. This is a restaurant with a surreal, almost storybook-style, tea party atmosphere run by enthusiasts and enjoyed by seafood lovers.  None of your pastel greys and minimalist lines here; the eclectic decor features floral satin wallpaper, illuminated seashells, golden painted cherubs clutching candles and shelves adorned with hats from all walks of life.



We were a large party of 13 hungry tummies and opted for a set menu as recommended by the owner Tina Hopton.  She welcomed us to a table in the centre of the small 'living room' and recommended their modestly priced but very drinkable white wine to accompany our meal.  It took little encouragement for us to try on the various hats for a group photo as the homely, relaxed vibe encouraged our fun loving fan-fare to get stuck in. Having said that there are quieter corners of the room for those wanting an intimate setting to sit and savour the shellfish delights.

Sailors Mussels

Thai Prawns

Our set menu was a bit of a mystery, although exciting, as we had no idea what was to come.  First to arrive were copper bowls brimming with plump and juicy mussels under a blanket of steam, like delicious smelling mist over a moonlit millpond. Some were served Sailor style with white wine, thyme, cream and garlic, others were Thai style with chilli, lime and coconut.  This is very much a hands-on eating experience, as it should be with shellfish, and sharing is the order of the night.  No flimsy napkins here, messy hands is obligatory, but they do provide large bowls of hot water and lots of kitchen rolls to clean yourself up as you go.  


Bowls of skinny fries and tasty could cous cous salads arrived regularly, accompanied by water and of course the wine.

Garlic Prawns

Fresh Crab

Next course was sautéed prawns, again split into two flavour combinations; Garlic Shell-on Prawns and Spicy Peeled Prawns with ginger and chilli.  All the ingredients were fresh so the garlic and chilli really played their part in making these dishes burst with flavour. 


By this point we began to wonder what palate pleaser could be next and we were not disappointed when the waitress arrived, arms bearing copious amounts of meaty whole fresh crab. Prepared in fresh garlic butter and herbs, they were presented (overflowing) in the now familiar copper bowls. Plenty of claws to extract juicy meat from as well as the white and brown body meat which led to intense concentration as our ingenuity was tested to get the most out of these crustaceans. Always a challenge to get the entirety of the crabmeat out but no worries as they boxed up the rest for us to take home.

For the grand finale, we were blessed with pearly scallop shells encasing their sweet meat, vibrant coral roes attached. These had been lightly seared to perfection with an intense citrus butter which included lemon peel. The flavours were intense but mellow and buttery all at the same time and each scallop had been cooked just enough to seal its flavour yet maintain a soft, pillowy texture (something not easily obtained by any means). 

We sensed a slight Portuguese influence at The Wheelhouse with the copper (cataplana) bowls, the fresh high quality shellfish, and all round enthusiasm.  This was further reinforced by the presentation of complimentary Port tasters at the end of the meal.  It turns out that Tina has spent some time in Portugal and was impressed by the way they do this sort of food - who am I to argue?

Hooked on the Rocks, Swanpool, Cornwall

Hooked on the Rocks, Swanpool, Cornwall

Hooked on the Rocks is a quick walk away from the bustle of Falmouth overlooking Swanpool beach with views across Falmouth estuary and over to Pendennis Castle.  They focus on fresh fish and shellfish with an emphasis on sustainability and local produce.  There is a rustic feel in Hooked, which is reminiscent of the superb fish restaurants in southern Portugal. It is not difficult to abide by the displayed house rules of  'relax, relax, relax' ! 

We were there for a light lunch and enjoyed 1/2 dozen local fresh rock oysters accompanied by a crisp Sauvignon Blanc to start.  This was followed by an equally fresh and tasty dressed crab with fries and salad on the side.  

Good food and good service.

The Crab Shed, Salcombe, Devon

The Crab Shed, Salcombe, Devon

The Crab Shed in Salcombe

This rustic-style restaurant, situated near to the Fish Quay in Salcombe, has only been open a year but has already established a good reputation for fresh seafood, in particular crab and lobster.  This may not be surprising as the restaurant is perched over their own crab factory where they produce hand picked fresh crabmeat.  They also source fish and shellfish directly from the local boats.  As always, the key to the best seafood is freshness and quality and in these respects The Crab Shed hits the mark.




Whole fresh crab was an obvious choice here and we were not disappointed.  The large crab provided had been caught and cooked within the previous 24 hours.  The crab arrived prepared and on a bed of crisp, fresh mixed salad.  A side order of fries completed the meal !  At the Crab Shed they remove the brown and white body meat from their crabs and mix together before pressing back into the shell.  The claws are intact and contain the usual high quality white claw-meat.  This ensures that all the crabs served are of consistent quality and crammed with a generous portion of the freshest crabmeat. An alternative dish which we tried was the crabmeat on fresh bread with avocado and salad.  Again the emphasis was on quality and freshness of all the ingredients. If you want an unbeatable fresh crab experience then head down to The Crab Shed in Salcombe - you won't regret it.

Axis, One Aldwych, New Years Eve 2013

Axis, the flagship restaurant at One Aldwych in London, is run by Executive Chef Dominic Teague (previously of l'Escargot and Sandy Lane Hotel Barbados) so I was quite excited at the prospect of experiencing his special NYE menu. 

NYE 2013 menu at Axis, London

Lobster Bisque

Canapés of crispy cod fritters, hand made cheese straws and mini-quiches were presented on arrival at our table. A glass of fizz would have been a nice touch but all drinks were excluded for the £85 per head price. We opted for a nice bottle of Sancerre at £48 which carried us through the meal.

First course for me was the Crab Bisque which was beautifully crafted to combine the delicate flavour of fresh crab with Montgomery Cheddar, crunchy croutons and Saffron Aioli. 

Lobster Cocktail

Next choice was Scottish Lobster Cocktail - claw meat with finely shredded leaves in a light citrus dressing and a touch of coriander. Very fresh lobster from the cool waters of Scotland,  perfectly cooked as this was, is moist and flavoursome and makes for a perfect intermediate dish. 


The main course of Pan Fried Wild Turbot Fillet was a change from the original menu of Halibut and a positive one in my book. Don't get me wrong, I like Halibut and I am sure that a chef like Dominic would have done it proud, but Turbot is 'the king of fish' and my particular favourite. Apparently the change was made due to our extreme weather conditions over the festive period which decimated the Halibut catch.  What a substitute ! (This must be how Man City boss, Manuel Pellegrini feels when he has to take Dzecko off and replace him with Aguero).  Presented on a bed of spinach with salsify, onions and a red wine jus ( Turbot is meaty enough to take this ) it was superb. 

Rounded off with a selection of 8 small desserts this was a delightful experience. 

Service and food quality were all top-notch thank you, One Aldwych and Axis.

Crab Balchao

Soft shell crab is one of my favourite small dishes as a starter or appetiser.  I have eaten it in many different styles including Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese and American.  Having an Indian version was new to me so I jumped at the opportunity when it appeared on the menu at Meghdoots restaurant in Petworth.  The crab was prepared in a light batter with ginger, garlic, vinegar and crushed peppercorns, topped with mango chutney and served with a yoghurt dip and salad garnish.  This delicious starter was developed for Meghdoot's recent Goan Food Fiesta which featured a guest Goan chef and offered a range of speciality dishes including King Prawn Cafreal (king prawns in a mint and coriander sauce with coconut) and Fish Ambot Tik (roasted hot and sour fish served with traditional Goan spices and served dry). Owner Sanjay Jha heralded the fiesta a huge success which was sold out every night, so check out Meghdoots website.    

Singapore Chilli Crab at The Seafood Restaurant

I am grateful for this review from Steve Counter who recently enjoyed this dish (and others) at Rick Stein's Seafood Restaurant in Padstow.   I remember a demonstration on how to prepare this crab when I attended the  Rick Stein Seafood School several years ago.

'I have to say that choosing a main course at Rick Stein's Seafood Restaurant was nearly an
impossible task as I would quite happily eat them all. However after 15 minutes deliberation I plumped for the Singapore Chilli Crab.

Well what to say - if you like working hard for your food then this is a must. When your course arrives you must have well over a kilo of what can only be described as gorgeous, full flavoured whole crab with so much white meat, all stir-fried with garlic, ginger, chilli and coriander. Every mouthful was a good as the next, superbly cooked and totally amazing. Wow, wow wow.'  
Steve Counter 6/10/2012

Quality shellfish at O Cantinho Algarvio

Lobster and crab from the live tank at this quality restaurant in Lagos, Portugal. The lobster is simply grilled with a little butter. The crab is dressed with chopped pickles, mayo and a little bit of beer ! Delicious.

Fresh Fish in Lagos, Portugal

Fresh fish in the market at Lagos

The fishing port of Lagos in the Algarve region of Portugal offers some of the finest quality fresh fish and shellfish much of which is landed and sold within 24 hours.  Many local day boats fish the productive Portuguese waters which are rich in nutrients due to the upwelling of cooler waters from the deeper Atlantic Ocean.  Locals and visitors flock to the Lagos fish market to take in the sights of a range of interesting fish and to buy for home cooking, barbecues and restaurants.




One of the restaurants which specialises in high quality seafood is O'Cantinho Algarvio in Rua Afonso de Almeida (just up from the square).  Proprietor, Carlos Ramos, can often be seen in the market choosing the best fish for his menu that night.  One of his 'secret' specialities and my particular favourite is the fillet of Turbot which is coated in a light flour and pan-fried. He also has a live-tank for the freshest lobster and crab.

Attention to detail is the key to high quality cuisine.  Here, Carlos is choosing a large Corvina which he will cut into steaks and store vac-packed in the fridge to ensure maximum freshness.  I noticed that his chosen fish had a hook in its mouth and he explained that line-caught fish were of better quality than those caught in trawl nets.  Generally speaking line-caught fish are preferred environmentally as hand-lining has minimal effect on seabed habitats.


Corvina ( Argyrosomus regia ) is known in English as the Meagre, and is one of the most traditional and valued fish on the Algarve.

Sushi at the Park Plaza, London

Ordered this combination plate at the Ichi Sushi restaurant in the Park Plaza hotel, Westminster.  My wife and I had stayed here a couple of nights earlier and I was so impressed that I returned there after work with my son.  Started off with Edamame beans then we had the combination plate which comprised spicy tuna and crab rolls, tuna, prawn, eel and salmon nigiri and sashimi of salmon, tuna and seabass.
All beautifully prepared and presented.  At £40 it's not the cheapest but it is worth it for the quality.

Fresh Brown Crab



Edible Crab

Shell removed showing gills




Dressed Crab

Cock Crab Underbelly

I bought this beautiful freshly boiled Brown Crab (Cancer pagurus) from the Good Fish Shop in Haslemere.  Being a cock (male) crab it has larger claws than a hen which results in more of the delicately flavoured white meat.  Apart from large claws you can identify the male by the narrower triangular shaped flap on the abdomen which on the female is much wider. To prepare your crab, place it 'nose' down on a chopping board and give it a good thump.  The shell should separate from the legs and main body. Prise the shell off and expose the inside which includes the 'dead mans fingers'.  These are in fact the gills and contrary to popular belief, are not deadly poisonous.  However, they have an unpleasant flavour and can harbour bacteria so should be removed. Also press out the mouth parts which should remove the stomach at the same time. Then scoop out the very tasy brown meat from inside the shell and the flaky white meat from inside the body cavities.  This is best performed with a 'pick' or small fork. Finally crack the claws with a mallet or rolling pin and ease out the claw meat.  Layer the brown, white and claw meat in the original top shell.