The Wheelhouse, Falmouth, Cornwall

If you love unadulterated, fresh-off-the-rocks shellfish, get yourself straight down to the Wheelhouse and it will not disappoint. Make sure you ring up to book first as this is a 'must-visit' destination in Cornwall and they only open Wednesday to Saturday.  Despite having no website, no twitter and no email they can be booked up for months ahead; especially in the Summer.  It's fame all comes down to word-of-mouth recommendations, which have to be the most reliable sources of real-life opinions when you think about it.

So, what is all the fuss about?  First and foremost it's the quality of the shellfish which is mainly locally sourced (apart from the prawns), extremely fresh and beautifully prepared.  Secondly it is the welcome. This is a restaurant with a surreal, almost storybook-style, tea party atmosphere run by enthusiasts and enjoyed by seafood lovers.  None of your pastel greys and minimalist lines here; the eclectic decor features floral satin wallpaper, illuminated seashells, golden painted cherubs clutching candles and shelves adorned with hats from all walks of life.



We were a large party of 13 hungry tummies and opted for a set menu as recommended by the owner Tina Hopton.  She welcomed us to a table in the centre of the small 'living room' and recommended their modestly priced but very drinkable white wine to accompany our meal.  It took little encouragement for us to try on the various hats for a group photo as the homely, relaxed vibe encouraged our fun loving fan-fare to get stuck in. Having said that there are quieter corners of the room for those wanting an intimate setting to sit and savour the shellfish delights.

Sailors Mussels

Thai Prawns

Our set menu was a bit of a mystery, although exciting, as we had no idea what was to come.  First to arrive were copper bowls brimming with plump and juicy mussels under a blanket of steam, like delicious smelling mist over a moonlit millpond. Some were served Sailor style with white wine, thyme, cream and garlic, others were Thai style with chilli, lime and coconut.  This is very much a hands-on eating experience, as it should be with shellfish, and sharing is the order of the night.  No flimsy napkins here, messy hands is obligatory, but they do provide large bowls of hot water and lots of kitchen rolls to clean yourself up as you go.  


Bowls of skinny fries and tasty could cous cous salads arrived regularly, accompanied by water and of course the wine.

Garlic Prawns

Fresh Crab

Next course was sautéed prawns, again split into two flavour combinations; Garlic Shell-on Prawns and Spicy Peeled Prawns with ginger and chilli.  All the ingredients were fresh so the garlic and chilli really played their part in making these dishes burst with flavour. 


By this point we began to wonder what palate pleaser could be next and we were not disappointed when the waitress arrived, arms bearing copious amounts of meaty whole fresh crab. Prepared in fresh garlic butter and herbs, they were presented (overflowing) in the now familiar copper bowls. Plenty of claws to extract juicy meat from as well as the white and brown body meat which led to intense concentration as our ingenuity was tested to get the most out of these crustaceans. Always a challenge to get the entirety of the crabmeat out but no worries as they boxed up the rest for us to take home.

For the grand finale, we were blessed with pearly scallop shells encasing their sweet meat, vibrant coral roes attached. These had been lightly seared to perfection with an intense citrus butter which included lemon peel. The flavours were intense but mellow and buttery all at the same time and each scallop had been cooked just enough to seal its flavour yet maintain a soft, pillowy texture (something not easily obtained by any means). 

We sensed a slight Portuguese influence at The Wheelhouse with the copper (cataplana) bowls, the fresh high quality shellfish, and all round enthusiasm.  This was further reinforced by the presentation of complimentary Port tasters at the end of the meal.  It turns out that Tina has spent some time in Portugal and was impressed by the way they do this sort of food - who am I to argue?

Rivington Bar and Grill

Set in Rivington Street, near Old Street Tube in trendy Shoreditch is The Rivington Bar and Grill which is owned by Caprice Holdings (The Caprice,  The Ivy).  One of two in London (the other is in Greenwich) the Rivington Shoreditch offers traditional British fare beautifully crafted from fresh, often locally sourced, produce.  The surroundings are 'New York meets Berlin' with a range of Art Deco architectural styles and lots of street art.

 
We arrived for dinner at the start of the London weekend (Thursday evening), were greeted warmly at the door and encouraged to relax and have a drink at the bar, as our table "will not be going anywhere". I dislike being rushed in a restaurant so this was a positive start which continued as we studied the vast array of gins on offer, finally choosing after advice, and a few tastings, provided by the barman.  We opted for the Colonel Fox and Rock Rose with Fever Tree tonic. Colonel Fox London Gin is made to an 1859 recipe and is flavoured with juniper, coriander, angelica, cassia, liquorice and bitter orange peel. Rock Rose is prepared and hand distilled in the Scottish Highlands and is flavoured with Juniper, Rose Root, Sea Buckthorn and Rowan berries.

 We were seated in the restaurant area which is decorated with whitewashed walls, stripped wood floors and bespoke Deco lamps. The decor is simple with clean white tablecloths and warm lighting to create a relaxing environment which is contrasted by the incredible buzz of conversation and enjoyment.  Maybe not a place for a quiet romantic tete-a-tete but tables are far enough apart for a feeling of your own space.  Art figures large at The Rivington, as it does in the whole area, and we were close to Tracy Emin's neon 'Life Without You - Never '.

Tempura battered squid

 The menu is not complicated and there are several seafood choices on offer including, fresh oysters, tempura squid, battered haddock, scallop ceviche, monkfish masala, smoked eel and cod with mussels.

I opted to start with the Tempura battered Cornish Squid with Chilli Jam.  Superb light batter, the pure white squid was tender and flavoursome and enhanced by the tangy jam. This is not fine dining but high quality food prepared from fresh produce and expertly presented. Most of all its is delicious.

Scallops, haggis, tatties,  neeps

For main it was Seared Cornish Scallops, Haggis, Bacon, Tatties and Neeps.  This arrived as five individual scallop shells each of which contained the entire combination and delicious it was too.  A nice change from the traditional scallop perched on top of black pudding.  

 Rounded off with a bottle of Picpoul de Pinet this was a very pleasant evening and I look forward to another visit.

Lewinnick Lodge, Newquay, Cornwall

Lewinnick Lodge, Newquay, Cornwall

Lewinnick Lodge Room with a View

Located on the Pentire Headland, with views to the open sea and back towards Fistral Beach, is the Lewinnick Lodge.  They describe themselves as a boutique restaurant with designer rooms, superb food and a view to take your breath away.  How can I argue with that as the Lewinnick has become our first choice place to stay when in Cornwall.  My perfect day is breakfast including Eggs Neptune (poached eggs with fresh crabmeat and Hollandaise), body boarding at Fistral (or Crantock) and a superb dinner at the Lewinnick restaurant - always with magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean. 

Their extensive menu offers, as you might expect, a range of seafood options, most of which incorporate fresh local produce.  Indeed it is the freshness and quality of the food which scores it very highly in my book.  

I will describe the some of the seafood options here but I can recommend first hand also some of the other dishes sampled including the flavoursome Cauliflower Cheese Soup and juicy Sirloin Steak (a steal at £19).

Cornish Sardines

Scallop Ceviche

One of the starters on the 'specials' menu was Scallop Ceviche.  Four raw fresh scallops which had been marinaded with chilli, red onion, smoked garlic oil, rocket peppers, coriander and lime. Presented with pomegranate seeds this light and succulent dish had subtle delicious flavours.
Another starter was the Grilled Cornish Sardines served with fennel, orange, grapefruit, pine nuts and salsa verde.  The citrus fruits cut nicely through the sardine oil in these beautifully fresh fish.  The sardine fishery in Cornwall has increased significantly in recent years probably as a result of sea temperature rise due to climate change.  Cornish sardines (Sardina pilchardus) is a pelagic (open water) fish which is classed as fully sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council. 

For main course which we enjoyed Pan Fried Cod Fillet with elderflower cream sauce, shallots, samphire, gnocchi, peas, clams and blackberries.  Translucent cod with crispy skin - it doesn't get any better. 

If you are looking for seafood (or meat) which is expertly prepared and served with a smile this has to be on your list.  The overall experience in the restaurant and rooms is second to none - friendly, helpful and great quality.

South Sands Hotel, Salcombe, Devon

South Sands Hotel, Salcombe, Devon

South Sands view

Pan seared scallops

This contemporary boutique hotel is situated right next to the beach in South Sands Bay just over a mile from Salcombe. 

The beautiful beachside restaurant serves fresh local seafood expertly prepared and presented.  An emphasis on local produce ensures freshness and quality in their flavoursome dishes. 






For starters I opted for the pan-fried scallops with minted pea ketchup, Parma ham crisp and lemon pea dressing.  The lightly seared scallops were fresh and succulent and melted into the subtle flavours of the pea and lemon. 

Pan fried turbot

River Exe mussels

For main courses we ordered the River Exe mussels and the 'fish of the day'. The mussels were described as 'mariniere style' and the chef certainly produced a delicious variation of the French classic dish.  The sauce was creamy, almost Béchamel in texture, and packed with flavours of garlic, ginger and herbs.  The 'fish of the day' was pan-fried Turbot with a sweet chilli chutney.  Always a favourite of mine this did not disappoint.  The meaty fish was white and moist with a  crispy skin which was a tasty treat.

Fish sharing tapas plate

Grilled sardines

Other dishes worthy of a mention included the beachside sharing tapas fish dish which comprised calamari (in a light batter), smoked salmon and char grilled prawns along with the grilled Cornish sardines with tomato chili and lime dressing.  Both superb as starter, main or just to share with a beer or glass of wine.







These are just a few examples of the wide range of excellent seafood dishes on offer at the South Sands Hotel.  We look forward to returning to enjoy some more of them. 

Brittens Restaurant in Guildford, Surrey

Daniel Britten reached the quarter-final of BBC Masterchef in 2008 and now operates Brittens restaurant in the Tunsgate area of Guildford, Surrey.  Offering Modern British cuisine Daniel aims to bring 'foodie' dishes with an emphasis on locally sourced, sustainable ingredients. Since opening last November it is attracting a lot of attention and very positive reviews.

I had lunch there last Thursday and found the food to be high quality, the service friendly and the pricing good value.  Surprisingly there were only a few customers on this particular Thursday lunchtime but maybe that is a sign of the times.

Pan Fried Scallops with Morcilla

The lunch menu comprised Small Plates (£7 each), Large Plates (£13 each ) and Sweet Shop (£5 each) all with plenty of choice and thankfully no supplements on any of the dishes. So diners can mix and match depending on mood and appetite.  I opted for one small and one large plate which essentially amounts to a two-course lunch for £20.  Perfectly reasonable considering the careful preparation and quality of the food.

My Small Plate starter was Pan-fried Scallops with Morcilla and Apple.  The king scallops were cooked to perfection with pieces of morcilla (Spanish black pudding) and pureed apple.  A classic dish expertly prepared. My Large Plate main course was Pan-fried Sea Bream, Crushed New Potatoes, Brown Shrimp Butter and Parsley Sauce. Beautifully presented and a great combination of flavours this dish worked perfectly.  The brown shrimp butter melted over the top of the crispy skin ( how did he do that ?)  bream fillet was flavoursome and enhanced by the fresh green parsley sauce.  Accompanied by the freshest steamed curly kale this was a delightful meal.  

All-in-all I enjoyed this two course meal with a carafe of Sauvignon Blanc and an espresso afterwards for around £30 per person which for the quality was incredibly good value.  The simple surroundings were elegant and relaxing and the service was good.  This is a 'London quality' restaurant in Guildford - long may it continue.

Brittens Restaurant, 1c Sydenham Road, Guildford GU1 3RT, 01483 302888

Wilks Restaurant, Bristol

With regard to restaurants and cuisine, the gap between London and the rest of the nation has been highlighted by many critics not least A. A. Gill in the Sunday Times Magazine this week.  There is some truth in it, particularly in terms of choice and availability (so many provincial restaurants close really early) but if you put your mind to it and carry out some internet research there are some real gems out there to enjoy. Just such a place is the recently opened Wilks Restaurant in Bristol.

We were spending a short weekend (i.e. Saturday night) in Bristol so I scanned the internet for restaurants which had some element of seafood in the menu. Wilks was highly rated so I reserved a table for our party of 6.  Most reviewers refer to the fact that Wilks has replaced Culinaria, a previously popular and successful restaurant, but I had no experience of that so I won't be making any comparisons here.

Wilks is located in Chandos Street, which is a quiet backwater in the Redland district.  In fact there is an unusual mix of residential properties, takeaways and budget restaurants in the area so Wilks is somewhat unique here.  No grand entrance or glitz, the restaurant is a comfortable, stylish space with its simple furniture, subtle lighting and welcoming staff.  Service throughout the meal was non-intrusive, efficient and the staff were very well informed about all of the dishes.  I do not crave grandeur but I do like to see quality in the table layout particularly wine glasses, cutlery and linen table napkins.  Wilks had all of that spot-on. 

Between the 6 of us we had a range of courses including pigeon breast, venison and mushroom veloute with black truffle oil (delicious) but I will restrict my descriptions here to some of the exquisite seafood.

Pan fried John Dory

The Pan Fried Fillets of John Dory were cooked perfectly and accompanied with mussels in carrot jus, lemongrass and ginger.  The delicate flavour of the fish was perfectly blended with the aromatics to give a nicely balanced dish. I love to see John Dory on the menu as, along with Turbot and Sole, it is one of my favourites.  It has firm flesh and can be pan-fried, grilled or baked but culinary success lies in not overcooking it.  I wasn't disappointed, the fillets were almost translucent, moist and delicious. The John Dory or St Peters Fish (Zeus faber) is essentially a coastal species which is unregulated so there is no specific information with regard to sustainability.  The general recommendation is to avoid eating immature fish (less than 35cm) during their breeding season (June to August).

Maple cured Salmon Fillet

The Maple Cured Salmon Fillet (left), served with pickled carrots, beetroots and sorrel, was a beautifully crafted starter. Adorned with 'ribbons' of fresh radish it was a delight on the eye and sensational on the tongue.

Sesame crust Cod Fillet

Other dishes we enjoyed that night included...Fillet of Wild Cod (with sesame crust, young leeks, chanterelles, ham jus) and Crab Bisque (with hand rolled crab ravioli).





Overall, Wilks is a must-visit restaurant which offers high quality cuisine, without pretence in a relaxed friendly environment.  Next time I am in Bristol it will be top of my list as I want to try the very reasonably priced tasting menu (5 courses for £40) which includes Fillet of Wild Turbot and Pan-seared Cornish Scallops.  My mouth is watering already.

Hawksmoor Air Street London

The Hawksmoor Air Street only opened in November but is already attracting good reviews. Unlike the other Hawksmoor restaurants this one doesn't only do great steaks. They have included a nice selection of seafood but not in a 'tacked on' way; they have teamed up with Mitch Tonks from Dartmouth to develop a seafood menu of high quality. The result in my opinion is great meat and equally great seafood with no compromises.
We had the seared scallops which were cooked with white wine , herb butter and sea salt. They were delicious and cooked to perfection. Main course was the monkfish which was well seasoned and grilled over charcoal. The result was succulent and very tasty with sides of fries and spinach with lemon and garlic. Service was friendly and helpful thanks to our waitress Aleksandra who was very knowledgeable about the food. We will go again.

Fine wines and tapas in Lagos, Portugal

Portugal produces some high quality wines particularly from regions such as Douro, Dao and Alentejo but they are not always easy to find in restaurants. Visit Hortela-Pimenta in central Lagos and you will be spoilt for choice. Not only do they stock some of the finest wines (at prices to suit all pockets), the staff Rebecca and Sarah offer helpful advice when choosing. This modern wine bar, which would be equally accepted in Lisbon or London, is run by owners Sandra Korreia and Nuno Soares Franco. Sandra runs the front of house and has a good knowledge of wine, food and presentation and welcomes customers with her warm personality. Nuno is an accomplished chef who trained at a top hotel. His food creations are attractively presented and offer exciting combinations of flavours. Seafood options include Octopus Stew in Red Wine, Sautéed Garlic Prawns and Scallops with Garden Greens and Olive/Orange Dressing (pictured). So, for sophistication, great food and high quality wines visit Hortela-Pimenta.

New years eve in Florence

Arancine of cuttlefish

Enjoyed a wonderful New Years Eve at the Frescobaldi restaurant at Piazza della Signoria in Florence. The 9 course menu was was superb with a selection of stunning wines to accompany including a bottle of Spumante for each table to celebrate at midnight.

Seafood dishes included Arancine (which literally means 'an orange which has fallen from the tree') of durum wheat stuffed with cuttlefish and diced vegetable and served on a disk of yellow squash.  The durum wheat 'semolina', similiar to large cous cous, was soaked in the cuttlefish ink which provided texture and flavour.

Sauteed scallops

The scallops sauteed in black butter and Rosemary with green onion compote, rice balls and steamed shrimp with caviar were a superb combination accompanied by the 2003 Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino.

After the midnight celebration there was a raffle for bottles of the wines we had enjoyed during the night and we won 2 bottles of the 40 Altari 2006, Vin Santo del Chianti D.O.C. (dessert wine) and a magnum of the Toscana I.G.T. red , Tenuta Luce della Vite, Lucente 2007.  As we were flying back to London with only hand luggage we donated our winnings to the hard working staff at the restaurant so we hope you enjoyed it !

A four and a half hour dinner to celebrate the new year of 2012 !

Kippers for Breakfast

We recently stayed at the Hotel du Vin in Bristol and enjoyed a very pleasant meal in the brasserie on Saturday evening.  The menu was interesting; I had the cod fillet with seared scallops and pepperonata as a main course.  The cod fillet was nice and thick and not overcooked giving delicate flakes of cod which slid away on the knife.  There are a number of sustainable sources for Atlantic Cod (Gadus morhua) including Iceland, NE Arctic and Celtic Sea.

The varied breakfast menu offered grilled kippers which I chose.  In fact when it arrived it was a pair of kipper fillets which were nicely presented with melted butter.  I added a couple of poached eggs for good measure.

When cooking a whole kipper at home I favour the method of cooking a kipper in a jug of hot water.  Just place the kipper, head down, into a tall jug filled with boiling water straight from the kettle.  Put a tea towel over the top and leave for 15 minutes.  Remove the kipper and serve with a knob of butter.  This provides a lightly cooked kipper without filling the house with cooking smells.