Rivington Bar and Grill

Set in Rivington Street, near Old Street Tube in trendy Shoreditch is The Rivington Bar and Grill which is owned by Caprice Holdings (The Caprice,  The Ivy).  One of two in London (the other is in Greenwich) the Rivington Shoreditch offers traditional British fare beautifully crafted from fresh, often locally sourced, produce.  The surroundings are 'New York meets Berlin' with a range of Art Deco architectural styles and lots of street art.

 
We arrived for dinner at the start of the London weekend (Thursday evening), were greeted warmly at the door and encouraged to relax and have a drink at the bar, as our table "will not be going anywhere". I dislike being rushed in a restaurant so this was a positive start which continued as we studied the vast array of gins on offer, finally choosing after advice, and a few tastings, provided by the barman.  We opted for the Colonel Fox and Rock Rose with Fever Tree tonic. Colonel Fox London Gin is made to an 1859 recipe and is flavoured with juniper, coriander, angelica, cassia, liquorice and bitter orange peel. Rock Rose is prepared and hand distilled in the Scottish Highlands and is flavoured with Juniper, Rose Root, Sea Buckthorn and Rowan berries.

 We were seated in the restaurant area which is decorated with whitewashed walls, stripped wood floors and bespoke Deco lamps. The decor is simple with clean white tablecloths and warm lighting to create a relaxing environment which is contrasted by the incredible buzz of conversation and enjoyment.  Maybe not a place for a quiet romantic tete-a-tete but tables are far enough apart for a feeling of your own space.  Art figures large at The Rivington, as it does in the whole area, and we were close to Tracy Emin's neon 'Life Without You - Never '.

Tempura battered squid

 The menu is not complicated and there are several seafood choices on offer including, fresh oysters, tempura squid, battered haddock, scallop ceviche, monkfish masala, smoked eel and cod with mussels.

I opted to start with the Tempura battered Cornish Squid with Chilli Jam.  Superb light batter, the pure white squid was tender and flavoursome and enhanced by the tangy jam. This is not fine dining but high quality food prepared from fresh produce and expertly presented. Most of all its is delicious.

Scallops, haggis, tatties,  neeps

For main it was Seared Cornish Scallops, Haggis, Bacon, Tatties and Neeps.  This arrived as five individual scallop shells each of which contained the entire combination and delicious it was too.  A nice change from the traditional scallop perched on top of black pudding.  

 Rounded off with a bottle of Picpoul de Pinet this was a very pleasant evening and I look forward to another visit.

Wines to go with Oysters

Having completed an extensive but by no means comprehensive trial of various wines which go well with oysters (a tough job I know) here are my top 5 recommendations for 2012.

Rock oysters and Chablis

Chablis 2011, Vocoret (Majestic £10.99)  
This wine is produced in one of the northernmost wine growing areas in the world where a combination of cool weather, limestone soils and Kimmeridgian clay produces one of the most iconic wine styles. Steely and mineral aromas with citrus fruits, limestone and slate provide a crisp, fresh and vibrant palate.  

Domaine de Villargeau 2011, Coteaux du Giennois(Majestic £8.99) 
This small appellation has only 91 hectares planted with Sauvignon vines and as it lives in the shadow of its neighbour, Pouilly Fume, its wines often slip under the radar and are hence excellent value.  Classic goosebery on the nose is intense and leads to a palate bursting with lime and nettle delivered with a clean crisp finish. 


Sancerre 2011, Calvet (Waitrose £9.99)
One of the most famous white wines in France, the Sancerre appellation is produced in 15 villages. An aromatic bouquet with white flowers and citrus fruits with flinty notes which perfectly complements the minerality of oysters.

2011 Picpoul de Pinet, Coteaux de Languedoc (M and S, £7.99) 
 Just a few miles from the Mediterranean coastline comes this crisp and zesty wine made from the Picpoul grape.  With a nose of lemon and lime, followed by green apple with a refreshingly dry and acidic finish.

2012 Sauvignon Blanc, Malborough Ragged Point (Majestic £5.99)
Typical Malborough characters of gooseberry, nettle and hints of tomato leaf on the nose.  Palate fruit is predominantly green apple and citrus with suggestions of melon, framed by intense acidity.

Oysters with Picpoul de Pinet

A popular wine to accompany oysters, as recommended on Twitter by Waitrose, Majestic Wines and Languedoc Wines was Picpoul de Pinet.  I purchased a bottle of 2011 Domaine de Morin - Langaran from the Haslemere Wine Cellar for £9:50. Domaine Morin Langaran sits on a slightly raised flat of land looking out over oyster beds of Bouzigues in the Etang de Thau. The citrus zestiness of this well chilled wine developed fully about 10-15 minutes after opening. A dozen Colchester rock oysters from The Good Fish Shop (Haslemere) were shucked and freshly squeezed lemon juice added.  These No3 oysters had a superb mineral quality and the wine worked very well with them.