Wednesday, 20 February 2013

Native Oysters and Champagne

Native Oysters at Searcys
If there is an 'r' in the month then it's time to be eating Native Oysters (Ostrea edulis) in the U.K.  They can be distinguished from the ubiquitous Pacific or Rock Oyster by virtue of their smoother, rounder shell although the best way to tell the difference is in the taste.  'Natives' have more flavour, in particular a pronounced mineral finish and to the oyster fan they are simply delicious.  When I eat Pacific Oysters I generally only squeeze on lemon juice and leave the shallot vinegar, Tabasco etc. firmly on the table. This is because I do not want to 'drown' the delicate creaminess.  However, the more pronounced flavour of the Native lends itself better to addition of small amounts of shallot vinegar or Tabasco.  Having said that, one squeeze of lemon does give an amazing oyster experience.

We were lucky enough to enjoy Native Oysters from Loch Ryan (Scotland) at the Grand Brasserie operated by Searcy's Champagne Bar at St. Pancras in London. This is Scotland’s only wild fishery, having remained in the possession of the Wallace family since 1701 when the oyster beds were given to them by King William III. The fishery is sustainably and productively managed, providing 95% of Scotland’s native oysters.  The expected harvest is about 300,000 oysters per season.  They harvest the largest 5% of the stock, with the rest being re-laid on the loch bed.  This simple and sustainable method is greatly increasing the stock and providing a stable future for the native oysters.

The perfect wine to accompany our oysters was a bottle of Besserat Brut Champagne. This bold and fresh wine had a fine mousse and developed complexity in the mouth with hints of apricot and tropical notes.  A perfect Champagne to enjoy with food. 

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