Thursday, 31 May 2012

Oyster Bar at Grand Central NYC



No trip to New York is complete without a visit to the Oyster Bar at Grand Central.  This Spring was no exception when we enjoyed a Medley of Seafood Platter with 5 different varieties (2 of each) of oyster plus jumbo shrimp, clams, NZ mussels and 1/2 lobster.  All in at $46 (£30) this represented pretty good value where the quality and freshness of the seafood was excellent.  A 2009 Domaine Fournier Sancerre (2009), with its good mineral finish, complemented the shellfish perfectly. The Oyster Bar offers wide a range of oysters (according to season) and the daily offerings can be viewed at their online menu .

On this lunchtime visit we were seated in the bar area at the back which, in my opinion, is not as good as the 'catacombs' in the main restaurant as it is a bit cramped with small tables.

Grand Central Terminal is an amazing station with a cathedral-like main concours and over 60 shops and restaurants.  A great place to visit even if you are not travelling on a train.

The native oyster (Ostrea edulis) and, particularly, the introduced Pacific oyster (Crassostrea gigas) are both grown commercially and are available widely. Oysters should be tightly closed when bought and have a fresh smell when opened. Often eaten raw, they are offered with a range of add-ons such as Tabasco sauce, chopped shallots in red wine vinegar and fresh lemon wedges.  For me, I always choose the lemon as it best enhances the delicate flavour and mineral finish of the oyster on the palate.   According to the Marine Conservation Society, farmed native or Pacific oysters offer a highly sustainable source of seafood.


A comprehensive and practical guide to oysters is offered online by Molly Watson.

Sunday, 27 May 2012

Barbecue Brill

Some people may not consider large flatfish for the barbecue but with a little care and attention they offer a stunning presentation visually and the highest quality in fish cuisine.  I purchased, from The Good Fish Shop,  2 medium sized Brill ( 600g each) as a meal for 2 people (i.e. 1 each).  Make a few diagonal cuts in the top of each fish and press in 1/2 slice of fresh lemon.  Season with black pepper and drizzle some olive oil on top.  Finally sprinkle some Fennel leaves (the frilly bit) on the top.  Slice one large Fennel bulb longways into discs and place on the preheated barbecue griddle and lay the Brill on top.  The Fennel prevents the Brill from sticking to the barbecue and imparts a wonderful subtle aniseed flavour to the fish.  Place an upturned baking tray on top to contain the heat thereby cooking both sides of the fish at once.  As you do not need to turn the fish over it keeps together and looks stunning on the plate.  I barbecued these Brill in about 20 minutes and they were cooked to perfection with moist, almost translucent flakes of flavoursome fish.


According to the Marine Conservation Society, fisheries for Brill (Scophthalmus rhombus) are poorly managed. Due to lack of data there is no assessment of populations or stock. Choose Brill caught by demersal otter trawl, or static nets rather than beam trawled fish. 

Wednesday, 7 March 2012

Grilled Dover Sole

One of the great classic fish dishes, Dover Sole (Solea solea) is in great condition at this time of year.  But quality comes at a price and it is not unusual to pay £35 per Kg in a fishmonger and £25 - £40 for a Dover Sole in a restaurant.  I bought this fish at The Good Fish Shop in Haslemere where they were on offer at a bargain price of £18 per Kg.  My fish cost me £12 and was ample for two people.  Ask your fishmonger to skin (both sides) and trim it (fins and tail) so it is ready for grilling.  Simply season with pepper, a little sea-salt, a drizzle of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice and grill or bake for about 15 minutes for a 750g fish.  I prefer to bake it in a sealed pan which keeps the fish moist.  Serve with a knob of butter and seasonal vegetables.
The most sustainable choices for Dover Sole are those caught in the Eastern Channel or North Sea of the NE Atlantic using Gill Nets or Otter Trawls (Fishonline).

Thursday, 1 March 2012

Sushi at the Park Plaza, London


Ordered this combination plate at the Ichi Sushi restaurant in the Park Plaza hotel, Westminster.  My wife and I had stayed here a couple of nights earlier and I was so impressed that I returned there after work with my son.  Started off with Edamame beans then we had the combination plate which comprised spicy tuna and crab rolls, tuna, prawn, eel and salmon nigiri and sashimi of salmon, tuna and seabass.
All beautifully prepared and presented.  At £40 it's not the cheapest but it is worth it for the quality.

Sunday, 12 February 2012

Monkfish Medallions with Bacon on Pak Choi

White Monkfish ( Lophius piscatorius), also known as Angler Fish, is an ugly beast which used to be discarded by commercial fisherman as worthless.  Nowadays however its white tail fillets which are quite meaty in texture command a high price on the fishmongers stall.  In the UK it is usually displayed and sold as pre-skinned white fillets with the large head discarded.  However in European countries such as Spain and Portugal you will be offered the whole fish so you can use the head for fish stock or in soups.  


According to the Marine Conservation Society most sources of Monkfish are not sustainable with the best stock management taking place in Icelandic waters.  They recommend that Monkfish should be eaten only occasionally which is good advice considering also the price tag. More sustainable alternatives include Mullet, Gurnard and Tilapia.


Being a 'meaty' fish it combines well with the bacon in this recipe.  Cut your skinned fillet into medallions about 2cm thick.  They will vary in diameter according to where you cut the fillet but that doesn't matter.  Wrap a piece of smoked bacon around each fillet and season with salt and pepper.  Bake in a closed dish (foil will do) in a hot oven for about 20 minutes.  Serve on a bed of finely chopped  Pak Choi tossed in butter. In this meal I added fresh pasta ravioli with butternut squash and beetroot on the side.



Monday, 30 January 2012

Battered Gurnard and Chips

Battered Gurnard and Chips
Friday fish and chip lunch using Gurnard instead of Cod or Haddock. I battered the skinned fish fillets using a light tempura style batter and deep fried it in vegetable oil. Combined with chunky chips and tomato ketchup, what a tasty lunch ! I bought two Gurnard whole from the Good Fish Shop in Haslemere where John, the fishmonger, filleted and skinned them for me. There is a lot of waste with Gurnard but the fillets are meaty and firm and these 2 fish cost £5 which is pretty good value. Gurnard (Aspitrigla cuculus is a highly sustainable choice being a fast growing species which matures early to a good size.  It is rated 2 (good choice) by the Marine Conservation Society on their Fish Online website.

Wednesday, 4 January 2012

New years eve in Florence

Arancine of cuttlefish


Enjoyed a wonderful New Years Eve at the Frescobaldi restaurant at Piazza della Signoria in Florence. The 9 course menu was was superb with a selection of stunning wines to accompany including a bottle of Spumante for each table to celebrate at midnight.

Seafood dishes included Arancine (which literally means 'an orange which has fallen from the tree') of durum wheat stuffed with cuttlefish and diced vegetable and served on a disk of yellow squash.  The durum wheat 'semolina', similiar to large cous cous, was soaked in the cuttlefish ink which provided texture and flavour.


Sauteed scallops
The scallops sauteed in black butter and Rosemary with green onion compote, rice balls and steamed shrimp with caviar were a superb combination accompanied by the 2003 Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino.

After the midnight celebration there was a raffle for bottles of the wines we had enjoyed during the night and we won 2 bottles of the 40 Altari 2006, Vin Santo del Chianti D.O.C. (dessert wine) and a magnum of the Toscana I.G.T. red , Tenuta Luce della Vite, Lucente 2007.  As we were flying back to London with only hand luggage we donated our winnings to the hard working staff at the restaurant so we hope you enjoyed it !

A four and a half hour dinner to celebrate the new year of 2012 !