Lewinnick Lodge, Newquay, Cornwall

Lewinnick Lodge, Newquay, Cornwall

Lewinnick Lodge Room with a View

Located on the Pentire Headland, with views to the open sea and back towards Fistral Beach, is the Lewinnick Lodge.  They describe themselves as a boutique restaurant with designer rooms, superb food and a view to take your breath away.  How can I argue with that as the Lewinnick has become our first choice place to stay when in Cornwall.  My perfect day is breakfast including Eggs Neptune (poached eggs with fresh crabmeat and Hollandaise), body boarding at Fistral (or Crantock) and a superb dinner at the Lewinnick restaurant - always with magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean. 

Their extensive menu offers, as you might expect, a range of seafood options, most of which incorporate fresh local produce.  Indeed it is the freshness and quality of the food which scores it very highly in my book.  

I will describe the some of the seafood options here but I can recommend first hand also some of the other dishes sampled including the flavoursome Cauliflower Cheese Soup and juicy Sirloin Steak (a steal at £19).

Cornish Sardines

Scallop Ceviche

One of the starters on the 'specials' menu was Scallop Ceviche.  Four raw fresh scallops which had been marinaded with chilli, red onion, smoked garlic oil, rocket peppers, coriander and lime. Presented with pomegranate seeds this light and succulent dish had subtle delicious flavours.
Another starter was the Grilled Cornish Sardines served with fennel, orange, grapefruit, pine nuts and salsa verde.  The citrus fruits cut nicely through the sardine oil in these beautifully fresh fish.  The sardine fishery in Cornwall has increased significantly in recent years probably as a result of sea temperature rise due to climate change.  Cornish sardines (Sardina pilchardus) is a pelagic (open water) fish which is classed as fully sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council. 

For main course which we enjoyed Pan Fried Cod Fillet with elderflower cream sauce, shallots, samphire, gnocchi, peas, clams and blackberries.  Translucent cod with crispy skin - it doesn't get any better. 

If you are looking for seafood (or meat) which is expertly prepared and served with a smile this has to be on your list.  The overall experience in the restaurant and rooms is second to none - friendly, helpful and great quality.

Bilbao Berria - London

Pintxos on the bar at Bilbao Berria

Just opened in Lower Regent Street, Bilbao Berria is a Basque influenced restaurant which offers an extensive menu of Spanish cuisine and wines. We chanced upon this bar/restaurant on Saturday evening just 2 days after its official opening and were intrigued by the sight of a veritable forest of sticks, each attached to a tasty snack. These were the traditional Pintxos which accompany the wines. We were enticed inside (it didn't take much) by the friendly encouragement of Alex who kindly gave us a potted history and a tour of the restaurant. We then stayed to enjoy a couple of superb Spanish wines and a range of the delicious Pintxos.

Bibao Berria London

The interior is impressive. Dominated by rich colours and lighting it has an upmarket Spanish atmosphere. The widespread use of copper tube, flattened and twisted into complex shapes on the ceiling gives a feeling that you are sitting inside a modern sculpture. Other natural materials including wood and stone add to the natural, arty feel. Bilbao Berria is located on two floors. At street level is the stylish bar with Pintxos and Spanish wines. On the lower ground floor, a more formal dining area offers a range of classic and modern Basque and Spanish dishes. The chef is the Australian, Ash Mair, winner of U.K. Masterchef Professional in 2011. He has had an interest in Basque cuisine for many years. 

Cod and Tuna Pintxos

Anchovies with Tomato

It was all too tempting to resist so we settled at a table in the bar and were greeted by our waitress Andrea who explained that all of the Pintxos were priced at £1.85 each and to grab a plate and help ourselves. She then enquired of our wine-type preference and recommended a couple, one of which we tasted first. We opted for the Pequenos Santos, a Galician wine made from Albarino grapes, which Andrea described as dry and slightly salty. A good description and very palatable. We collected about 5 Pintxos each and enjoyed the variety of flavours on offer. The range is extensive and it would be all to easy to just keep grazing but we managed some self-discipline until Andrea brought over grilled Chorizo on bread which was amazing. To follow, we tried a couple of desserts, a mini creme caramel and a chocolate brownie, complemented perfectly with a sweet Riojan wine called Seduccion, made from Muscat (50%) and Vivra (50%) grapes.

All-in-all a terrific experience combining tasty foods, beautiful wines and friendly service. Already successful in Bilbao and Barcelona, this latest London outpost is destined to succeed. So go and enjoy Bilbao Berria, we certainly will again!

Wilks Restaurant, Bristol

With regard to restaurants and cuisine, the gap between London and the rest of the nation has been highlighted by many critics not least A. A. Gill in the Sunday Times Magazine this week.  There is some truth in it, particularly in terms of choice and availability (so many provincial restaurants close really early) but if you put your mind to it and carry out some internet research there are some real gems out there to enjoy. Just such a place is the recently opened Wilks Restaurant in Bristol.

We were spending a short weekend (i.e. Saturday night) in Bristol so I scanned the internet for restaurants which had some element of seafood in the menu. Wilks was highly rated so I reserved a table for our party of 6.  Most reviewers refer to the fact that Wilks has replaced Culinaria, a previously popular and successful restaurant, but I had no experience of that so I won't be making any comparisons here.

Wilks is located in Chandos Street, which is a quiet backwater in the Redland district.  In fact there is an unusual mix of residential properties, takeaways and budget restaurants in the area so Wilks is somewhat unique here.  No grand entrance or glitz, the restaurant is a comfortable, stylish space with its simple furniture, subtle lighting and welcoming staff.  Service throughout the meal was non-intrusive, efficient and the staff were very well informed about all of the dishes.  I do not crave grandeur but I do like to see quality in the table layout particularly wine glasses, cutlery and linen table napkins.  Wilks had all of that spot-on. 

Between the 6 of us we had a range of courses including pigeon breast, venison and mushroom veloute with black truffle oil (delicious) but I will restrict my descriptions here to some of the exquisite seafood.

Pan fried John Dory

The Pan Fried Fillets of John Dory were cooked perfectly and accompanied with mussels in carrot jus, lemongrass and ginger.  The delicate flavour of the fish was perfectly blended with the aromatics to give a nicely balanced dish. I love to see John Dory on the menu as, along with Turbot and Sole, it is one of my favourites.  It has firm flesh and can be pan-fried, grilled or baked but culinary success lies in not overcooking it.  I wasn't disappointed, the fillets were almost translucent, moist and delicious. The John Dory or St Peters Fish (Zeus faber) is essentially a coastal species which is unregulated so there is no specific information with regard to sustainability.  The general recommendation is to avoid eating immature fish (less than 35cm) during their breeding season (June to August).

Maple cured Salmon Fillet

The Maple Cured Salmon Fillet (left), served with pickled carrots, beetroots and sorrel, was a beautifully crafted starter. Adorned with 'ribbons' of fresh radish it was a delight on the eye and sensational on the tongue.

Sesame crust Cod Fillet

Other dishes we enjoyed that night included...Fillet of Wild Cod (with sesame crust, young leeks, chanterelles, ham jus) and Crab Bisque (with hand rolled crab ravioli).





Overall, Wilks is a must-visit restaurant which offers high quality cuisine, without pretence in a relaxed friendly environment.  Next time I am in Bristol it will be top of my list as I want to try the very reasonably priced tasting menu (5 courses for £40) which includes Fillet of Wild Turbot and Pan-seared Cornish Scallops.  My mouth is watering already.

Kippers for Breakfast

We recently stayed at the Hotel du Vin in Bristol and enjoyed a very pleasant meal in the brasserie on Saturday evening.  The menu was interesting; I had the cod fillet with seared scallops and pepperonata as a main course.  The cod fillet was nice and thick and not overcooked giving delicate flakes of cod which slid away on the knife.  There are a number of sustainable sources for Atlantic Cod (Gadus morhua) including Iceland, NE Arctic and Celtic Sea.

The varied breakfast menu offered grilled kippers which I chose.  In fact when it arrived it was a pair of kipper fillets which were nicely presented with melted butter.  I added a couple of poached eggs for good measure.

When cooking a whole kipper at home I favour the method of cooking a kipper in a jug of hot water.  Just place the kipper, head down, into a tall jug filled with boiling water straight from the kettle.  Put a tea towel over the top and leave for 15 minutes.  Remove the kipper and serve with a knob of butter.  This provides a lightly cooked kipper without filling the house with cooking smells.