SANO TO GO; Fad-free healthy food

Just occasionally something comes along which is not entirely seafood but is so good that I have to share it with you.  Such is the case with Sano To Go a new concept in healthy 'grab-and-go' food which has just opened in London. I am grateful to lifestyle blogger, Georgia (She.seas) who visited them last week and has written this entertaining piece.   

It’s one o-clock and hunger has struck. You’re in the office, realise you’ve been sat at your desk since eight a.m. and the recurring conflict hits the brain (as it does every lunchtime): healthy or tasty? Well now you can have both, Sano To Go is a nutritionally balanced fast food joint with an emphasis on the idea that you can get a good-for-you lunch without the pretence, just keeping it simple with minimal processing and good quality ingredients.

The store itself is also a game changer in comparison to the usual pit-stop lunch spot. Picture bright open spaces, neutral textured wood and metal with accents of turquoise to keep it cheery. The lighting is the perfect shade of natural warmth and the hanging filament bulbs are encased in science-lab style conical flasks; a fun touch.  The kitchen is also on display where you can see the chefs buzzing around like bees in their hive of good food and equally good moods. Although the store is set a little off from the hustle and bustle of Chancery lane’s main street, the location is actually what makes chilling out at Sano To Go such a pleasant experience. We spend so much time battling the masses just to get to and from work, we at least deserve an hour of serenity during our lunch break, right?

Most importantly, the food. What I loved about this fundamental aspect of the café is that it isn’t overcomplicated, contains ‘normal’ ingredients and above all, it tastes damn delicious. The thought behind the somewhat bare interiors became clear as soon as I started stuffing my face: the food does the talking. Each ingredient in the dishes provides a rainbow of colours and perfect harmony of flavours. I had the chickpea and ras-el-hanout burger, topped with spiced tomato, turmeric cabbage, spinach and pickled red onion. The patty and toppings were sandwiched within a granary roll and oozing with tahini dressing, it was by far the juiciest of veggie burgers and yes, I was covered in it once I’d finished… note to self: accept the complimentary napkins next time. The flavours were delightful despite the messy after effects; a blend of Moroccan spices and meaty chickpeas with the perfect accompaniment of creamy tahini in a chewy, nutty bun. It’s safe to say it was worth the copious number of face wipes that followed.

Upon leaving Sano To Go, my eyes wandered toward the counter once more and clocked the pretty little array of less than guilty treats sat next to the drinks and salad pots. Though my stomach was definitely satisfied, my dessert belly had room for something sweet to complete the meal. I opted for the raw millionaire shortbread and I will most definitely be back for another. In a nutshell; there was a crunch through the light chocolate first layer, a criminally gooey caramel centre and a perfectly balanced firm base of biscuit. Sounds like your ideal millionaire slice right? Well expect to eat it again because this one contains only natural sweetness (dates, maple syrup) and the base is made from almond flour making it gluten free too. Suddenly dessert doesn’t seem so much of a blowout. What I loved most was that I didn’t find I was still craving that ‘real’ sugar sensation, my taste buds were perfectly satisfied and in fact I’d even choose these treats over the traditional version I used to get from the local bakery after school (and they were really, really good.)

To sum up Sano, (yes, we’ve nicknamed you now that we’re friends) I’d say it’s a great place to go if you are after something satisfying but fits in with a nutritious, balanced diet. It’s not pharmaceutically healthy, nor is everything raw and plant-based, but it caters to the ‘normal’ people (like us) who want to fill up on food we really enjoy; whilst doing good to our insides.

Moxon's Fishmonger, Islington, London

Looking for fresh fish in London ? You probably can't do much better than visiting Moxon's in Islington High St. They have an amazing selection of fresh fish and shellfish, sourced by their own specialists at Billingsgate and around the coast. They even have their own fish smoker for Mackerel, Kippers etc.

Islington Manager 'Kev' has a wealth of knowledge with regard to the origins of their produce, how to prepare it and great tips on cooking. But then again he used to be a chef and he is studying marine biology in his spare time. I watched him expertly guide an Italian customer, who had a typical European rapport with seafood, through his purchase of Sea Witch and fresh Octopus.


The shop offers a wide range of produce which included Fines de Claires native oysters, Pacific Oysters from Carlingford, live crab and lobsters, shiny wild Seabass and meaty Turbot.

I bought some Loch Duart Salmon fillet and some beautifully fresh whole Squid which Kev double bagged with an ice pack for me to get it home to Surrey in tip top condition.

Independent fishmongers with Kev's skill, knowledge and enthusiasm are about as rare as Common Skate (ie nearly extinct) so get yourself down to Moxons and sample the freshness of the sea in the heart of London. 

Brittens Guildford

I first visited Brittens in March 2014, about 6 months after it had opened.  I was impressed then and I am even more impressed now. I was lured back in a couple of weeks ago by the amazing lunch offer (2 courses for £11.95) and the food quality was so good that we decided to eat dinner there last week after a visit to the cinema. 

We enjoyed starters of 'Cured Salmon with dill, capers' and 'Chargrilled Mackerel with pickled beetroot and orange'. The salmon was beautifully cured with a firm texture and delicate flavour.  Its pale orange colour gave a clue that it was sourced from a high quality fish farm.  The fresh mackerel was amazing with crisp skin and not too oily (a sign of freshness). This had been expertly fileted as there were no bones, the pin bones having been removed using the 'V'-cut method. The acidity of the pickled beetroot and fresh orange cut nicely through the natural oil of the fish.

For main we had the Cornish Pollock with mussels, cider cream and spinach. Again cooked perfectly, the fish was succulent and tasty with juicy mussels adding interest. The addition of the cider cream was genius as it lifted the overall flavour of the dish. Pollock is commonly found in UK waters and is a considered a sustainable alternative to Cod or Haddock. Its natural flavour is a little more bland than its cod family relatives so sauces, such as the cider cream here, can be used to enhance it. The UK species (Pollachius pollachius) is a distant relative of the Alaskan (Walleye) Pollock (Theragra chalcogramma) which is one of the most important commercial fisheries in the world.

Daniel Britten is a highly accomplished chef and has honed his skills as a restaurateur since he appeared on Masterchef in 2008.  The Guildford restaurant is elegant with great food and service.  His dishes are interesting but not over elaborate and above all he uses fresh (often local) ingredients in combinations where the flavour of final dish is more than the sum of the individual parts.

The Leconfield, Petworth

The Leconfield, Petworth, West Sussex

Leconfield Restaurant

We have been going to the Leconfield restaurant in Petworth, West Sussex since it first opened several years ago.  There have been many developments since that first visit.  Changes in house manager, chefs and staff training have lead to a better and better dining experience. One significant factor has been guidance from Pascal Proyart, Head Chef at One-o-One, which many (myself included) rate as the best seafood restaurant in London.


So I was really looking forward to dinner there last night.  Initial booking by telephone was pleasant and friendly and this theme continued when we arrived and were greeted by the House Manager and our waitress for the evening.  To our surprise we were told that they now had a new Head Chef who had started just one week before.  Previously Head Chef at The Aubergine restaurant in Marlow, Tim O'Shea now joins the team at the Leconfield and first impressions are very good.

Smoked Haddock Vichyssoise

Tim has managed to create new menus already and there was a sumptuous range on offer on the a la carte menu.  Not all seafood of course, but notable items included Carlingford Rock Oysters, Squid and Octopus Pancha and Baked Dover Sole.  However, we opted for the set menu which offered 2 courses for £25 or 3 courses for £30.  

Smoked haddock, potato, confit hen's egg

To start I ordered the Vichyssoise with Poached Haddock and New Potato. Traditionally this is a thick soup made from leeks, onions, potato, cream and chicken stock but Tim put a wonderful seafood slant to it.  The haddock was braised in milk beforehand and the milky fish-stock was added to the leek and potato mix.  Pieces of the braised haddock and new potato, together with confit hens egg, were presented on the soup plate and the Vichyssoise was added at the table.  The result was a cool, refreshing, creamy (but not rich) soup with subtle fish flavours.

Salmon Canneloni

Main course was the Salmon Cannelloni with Braised Fennel and Vermouth Cream.  Half of the salmon was whipped with cream into a smooth mousse before adding to the remainder in the canneloni.  Delicately braised fennel, star anise and the bold vermouth cream completed this meal perfectly to provide a delicate balance of firm flavours. 

Rounding off with the British and French Cheese with Fig Chutney and Fennel Lavash we enjoyed a lovely evening at the Leconfield.  Full marks for food and service; can this place get any better ? 

South Sands Hotel, Salcombe, Devon

South Sands Hotel, Salcombe, Devon

South Sands view

Pan seared scallops

This contemporary boutique hotel is situated right next to the beach in South Sands Bay just over a mile from Salcombe. 

The beautiful beachside restaurant serves fresh local seafood expertly prepared and presented.  An emphasis on local produce ensures freshness and quality in their flavoursome dishes. 






For starters I opted for the pan-fried scallops with minted pea ketchup, Parma ham crisp and lemon pea dressing.  The lightly seared scallops were fresh and succulent and melted into the subtle flavours of the pea and lemon. 

Pan fried turbot

River Exe mussels

For main courses we ordered the River Exe mussels and the 'fish of the day'. The mussels were described as 'mariniere style' and the chef certainly produced a delicious variation of the French classic dish.  The sauce was creamy, almost Béchamel in texture, and packed with flavours of garlic, ginger and herbs.  The 'fish of the day' was pan-fried Turbot with a sweet chilli chutney.  Always a favourite of mine this did not disappoint.  The meaty fish was white and moist with a  crispy skin which was a tasty treat.

Fish sharing tapas plate

Grilled sardines

Other dishes worthy of a mention included the beachside sharing tapas fish dish which comprised calamari (in a light batter), smoked salmon and char grilled prawns along with the grilled Cornish sardines with tomato chili and lime dressing.  Both superb as starter, main or just to share with a beer or glass of wine.







These are just a few examples of the wide range of excellent seafood dishes on offer at the South Sands Hotel.  We look forward to returning to enjoy some more of them. 

Seafood at the Almyra Hotel in Cyprus

Infinity pool at AlmyraSpa

In pursuit of some winter sun at the end of our UK winter we ended up in Cyprus at the Almyra Hotel in Paphos.  This was our first visit to Cyprus but it ticked all the boxes having temperatures around 20C and less than 5 hours flying with Easyjet and a small time difference (+2 hours).  The Almyra Hotel offered good facilities including a well appointed spa, gymnasium, pools and sporting facilities all situated next to the Mediterranean Sea.  The cuisine on offer was promising with several restaurants available at this hotel and the neighbouring sister Hotel Annabelle.

Fishing Boats in Pafos

Cyprus is situated in the eastern end of the Mediterranean where the water is not particularly rich in nutrients and so the fish stocks are not highly abundant.  However local fishing boats, like those based in Paphos, do bring a regular supply of local produce including Picarel (a type of whitebait), Dorado, Mullet, Cuttlefish, Squid, Tuna and Swordfish.  Farmed fish in Cyprus include Gilthead Bream and Seabass. The inshore fishing is carried out from small wooden boats using long lines or nets.

Char-grilled Fresh
Calamari

Local fresh squid (Calamari) is abundant and makes for a tasty dish.  This whole squid was scored and grilled over barbecue coals at the poolside restaurant, Notios. Beautifully prepared with local olive oil and lemon juice it was tender and juicy.  It is important to 'score' the flesh of a squid before cooking as it helps to tenderise the squid-meat during cooking.  Other notable dishes at Notios included Seared Salmon and Seafood and SeaweedSalad.

Sushi by the Sea

Seafood & Seaweed Salad

The Almyra also specialises in Japanese cuisine and offer a range of dishes to order from the menu or even especially prepared after discussions with the chef.  These plates of Sushi and Sashimi were expertly crafted from the freshest ingredients.  The dishes included Salmon and Tuna Maki rolls, Yellowfin Tuna Sashimi, Seabass and Squid Nigiri.  Accompanied by a highly palatable Sauvignon Blanc from the Tsiakkas Winery, this made for an very pleasant lunch.

Jumbo Prawn with Rice

A lunchtime alternative was the Ouzeri restaurant which has a rustic appeal and is situated at the edge of the sea. Fresh fish was always available. One of the most popular dishes was the charcoal grilled Jumbo Prawns with rice - absolutely delicious ! Again a good choice of cocktails and wines (local and international) were on offer but we opted for the Tsiakkas Merlot which again was extremely good.

Paella

Mosaics, Almyra’s main restaurant, caters for all tastes with modern Mediterranean and International buffets.  Much to our (pleasant) surprise the evening meal in this restaurant was complimentary and the quality of the food and wine was very good indeed. From a simple salad to swordfish kebabs, a wide range of wines and good service made this a regular favourite.  The Almyra'a adjacent 'sister' hotel, The Annabelle, offered the same deal also with themed nights which included 'Mediterranean', Italian and Oriental cuisine. The image shows Chef Gary, at the Annabelle, preparing a Paella to order, overseen by Executive Chef, Alexandre Geffroy.

Flame seared Sashimi Salmon

Miso glazed Black Cod

 There were fine dining options at the Almyra which more than met the mark.  'Flavours' is an elegant restaurant situated around the fireplace at the far end of the foyer bar.  Offering a combination of Japanese and Mediterranean cuisine the menu was varied and interesting.  The Flame-seared Sashimi Salmon with Italian white truffle oil and Gremolata was delicate and the Miso Glazed Black Cod with pickled vegetables and Yuzu Miso dressing (made with a Japanese citrus fruit) was flavoursome. Flavours also offered an impressive selection of international fine wines to complement the excellent food.

Pan fried Sea Bream

Sauteed Prawn

More formal fine dining was provided at Amorosa in the Annabelle Hotel next door. It is a sophisticated restaurant which specialises in contemporary French cuisine. I opted for the four course set menu which at €28 was a bargain but was even more amazed when I learned that our meal plan reduced this to a ridiculous €15.  For food of this quality I would expect to pay four or five times that amount.  My choices included Sauteed Prawn with Green Beans, Potatoes, Black Olives and Lemon Butter Sauce followed by Cauliflower Soup with Olive Tapenade Crostini. For main course it was Pan Fried Sea Bream with Spinach Mash, Ratatouille and Champagne Sauce. Then to finish, Dark Chocolate and Orange Crepes with Orange Zest Confit and Pear Sorbet.  All prepared to perfection with fresh ingredients and served expertly with fine wines on offer.

In summary, I would highly recommend the quality of the seafood at these 2 Thanos hotels. I am told that a third hotel in the group, Anassa, is also good so here's to my next visit ! 

Crayfish at Stockholm, East Sheen, London

 Crayfish are the smaller, freshwater cousins of the lobster and are best eaten during the season between Spring and Autumn. I was fortunate to enjoy some recently at the Crayfish Festival held at the Stockholm restaurant in Sheen Lane, East Sheen, London SW14. 

Stockholm is a friendly, family run restaurant which operates as a deli/cafe during the day and a restaurant at night. Restaurant Manager, Majvor provides a warm welcome while husband Goran is Head Chef running the kitchen. Shelves laden with Scandinavian culinary delights adorn the walls of the restaurant which has a homely feel       with plenty of Swedish style. 

Majvor explained to me that they buy live crayfish direct from a supplier in the Cotswolds who export much of their produce to Sweden. They source Dill directly from Sweden where they grow the herb with a full flower head to provide better flavour. The resulting dish was amazing with the sweetness of the Crayfish enhanced by the aromatic flavour of the Dill. I look forward to returning to Stockholm to try some of their other Swedish fish delights including 'Home Cured Salmon with Creamed Dill Potato' and 'Herring Platter'.

Aqua Shard, London

The Shard, London

The Shard, designed by award winning architect, Renzo Piano, spans 72 floors and is the tallest building in Western Europe rising 310m (1016 ft) above the London skyline.

The two latest culinary offerings at the iconic Shard building in London are from the Hong Kong based Aqua restaurant group.  Aqua Shard reviewed here offers contemporary British cuisine from the 31st floor whereas Aqua Hutong (one floor up) is top quality Chinese.  

The location is undeniably stunning with incredible 360 degree views of London further enhanced by the use of copious glass and mirrors to provide a spacious and light interior with incredible views from almost every angle.  Attention to detail is obvious from table positioning to the use of glass walled 'private' dining areas to reduce noise but maximise light. Even the urinals in the Gents have been strategically placed to maximise the view !

Aqua Restaurant Group is the brainchild of ex-Credit Suisse Finance Lawyer, David Yeo and his silent partner, Richard Ward.  They now boast 21 restaurants spread across London, Hong Kong and Beijing, each featuring elegant decor and exciting venues in keeping with David's vision.  They have plans to open more as they move onwards and upwards from their humble beginnings in Hollywood Road, Hong Kong in 2000.  

Iconic settings can often lead to a disappointing eating experience whereby the venue draws the customers so the food is secondary.  However, in the case of Aqua Shard I can vouch that, in my experience, this is not the case.  Chef Anthony Garlando, protege of Michelin 3-star chef Pierre Gagnare, does not disappoint in terms of menu selection, presentation and flavour. We opted, of course, for seafood and I can honestly say that it was some of the best I have ever tasted so the elegant surroundings and stunning views were a real bonus.

Loch Duart Salmon

Grilled Octopus & Mackerel

For starters we had Confit of Loch Duart Salmon with Dorset Crab, Avocado, Pepper Puree, Courgette and Oscietra Caviar. Beautifully crafted it was a delight on the eye and on the palate.  The delicate flavour of this superb salmon combined perfectly with a generous quenelle of the crabmeat and the salty spark of the caviar.  Our other starter was Grilled Octopus and Scottish Mackerel with Tomato Sorbet, Pickled Shallots, Aubergine Dressing and Crispy Potato.  The flavours were more intense in this starter but the combination of the tomato sorbet with the lightly cooked mackerel was perfect and the texture of the grilled Octopus added yet another dimension to this flavourful dish.  The addition of fresh herbs such as Sorrel was another sign of Chef Garlando's skill.

Dover Sole

Roasted Halibut

Our mains were Roasted Halibut and Grilled Dover Sole. The halibut was served on a bed of cockles with pumpkin, Swiss chard and a grilled langoustine.  The Dover Sole was served on the bone but was perfectly skinned and trimmed.  It came with an interesting combination of cubes of Iberico ham, cuttlefish, broad beans and a light foamy sauce of Luscombe Devon Cider. The combination of sweet and salty worked well with the firm meaty texture of the sole.  




All-in-all Aqua Shard was a memorable experience which we would like to repeat soon.  Prices are what you would expect for an up-market restaurant but still represent value for money when you consider the quality.  The view is a real bonus for free !

Wilks Restaurant, Bristol

With regard to restaurants and cuisine, the gap between London and the rest of the nation has been highlighted by many critics not least A. A. Gill in the Sunday Times Magazine this week.  There is some truth in it, particularly in terms of choice and availability (so many provincial restaurants close really early) but if you put your mind to it and carry out some internet research there are some real gems out there to enjoy. Just such a place is the recently opened Wilks Restaurant in Bristol.

We were spending a short weekend (i.e. Saturday night) in Bristol so I scanned the internet for restaurants which had some element of seafood in the menu. Wilks was highly rated so I reserved a table for our party of 6.  Most reviewers refer to the fact that Wilks has replaced Culinaria, a previously popular and successful restaurant, but I had no experience of that so I won't be making any comparisons here.

Wilks is located in Chandos Street, which is a quiet backwater in the Redland district.  In fact there is an unusual mix of residential properties, takeaways and budget restaurants in the area so Wilks is somewhat unique here.  No grand entrance or glitz, the restaurant is a comfortable, stylish space with its simple furniture, subtle lighting and welcoming staff.  Service throughout the meal was non-intrusive, efficient and the staff were very well informed about all of the dishes.  I do not crave grandeur but I do like to see quality in the table layout particularly wine glasses, cutlery and linen table napkins.  Wilks had all of that spot-on. 

Between the 6 of us we had a range of courses including pigeon breast, venison and mushroom veloute with black truffle oil (delicious) but I will restrict my descriptions here to some of the exquisite seafood.

Pan fried John Dory

The Pan Fried Fillets of John Dory were cooked perfectly and accompanied with mussels in carrot jus, lemongrass and ginger.  The delicate flavour of the fish was perfectly blended with the aromatics to give a nicely balanced dish. I love to see John Dory on the menu as, along with Turbot and Sole, it is one of my favourites.  It has firm flesh and can be pan-fried, grilled or baked but culinary success lies in not overcooking it.  I wasn't disappointed, the fillets were almost translucent, moist and delicious. The John Dory or St Peters Fish (Zeus faber) is essentially a coastal species which is unregulated so there is no specific information with regard to sustainability.  The general recommendation is to avoid eating immature fish (less than 35cm) during their breeding season (June to August).

Maple cured Salmon Fillet

The Maple Cured Salmon Fillet (left), served with pickled carrots, beetroots and sorrel, was a beautifully crafted starter. Adorned with 'ribbons' of fresh radish it was a delight on the eye and sensational on the tongue.

Sesame crust Cod Fillet

Other dishes we enjoyed that night included...Fillet of Wild Cod (with sesame crust, young leeks, chanterelles, ham jus) and Crab Bisque (with hand rolled crab ravioli).





Overall, Wilks is a must-visit restaurant which offers high quality cuisine, without pretence in a relaxed friendly environment.  Next time I am in Bristol it will be top of my list as I want to try the very reasonably priced tasting menu (5 courses for £40) which includes Fillet of Wild Turbot and Pan-seared Cornish Scallops.  My mouth is watering already.

Cured Salmon in Tuscany

This starter was prepared by the highly talented chef at the Piopponero (Black Poplar) restaurant at Villa Le Maschere, a 5 star resort hotel in the Tuscan hills about 1/2 hour from Florence.

It is marinated Norwegian salmon, flavoured with dill and combined with shavings of fennel bulb, green apple and ginger salad.

Like all the food at this hotel, it was DELICIOUS.  Thick cut succulent salmon, mildly cured with a hint of Dill.

A bottle of the very reasonably priced Orvieto Classico complemented it perfectly.


We enjoyed a range of seafood at this hotel including raw Langoustine (the largest ones I have ever seen), fresh rock oysters, sushi salmon and tuna sashimi and salt codfish.

Sushi at the Park Plaza, London

Ordered this combination plate at the Ichi Sushi restaurant in the Park Plaza hotel, Westminster.  My wife and I had stayed here a couple of nights earlier and I was so impressed that I returned there after work with my son.  Started off with Edamame beans then we had the combination plate which comprised spicy tuna and crab rolls, tuna, prawn, eel and salmon nigiri and sashimi of salmon, tuna and seabass.
All beautifully prepared and presented.  At £40 it's not the cheapest but it is worth it for the quality.