Brittens Guildford

I first visited Brittens in March 2014, about 6 months after it had opened.  I was impressed then and I am even more impressed now. I was lured back in a couple of weeks ago by the amazing lunch offer (2 courses for £11.95) and the food quality was so good that we decided to eat dinner there last week after a visit to the cinema. 

We enjoyed starters of 'Cured Salmon with dill, capers' and 'Chargrilled Mackerel with pickled beetroot and orange'. The salmon was beautifully cured with a firm texture and delicate flavour.  Its pale orange colour gave a clue that it was sourced from a high quality fish farm.  The fresh mackerel was amazing with crisp skin and not too oily (a sign of freshness). This had been expertly fileted as there were no bones, the pin bones having been removed using the 'V'-cut method. The acidity of the pickled beetroot and fresh orange cut nicely through the natural oil of the fish.

For main we had the Cornish Pollock with mussels, cider cream and spinach. Again cooked perfectly, the fish was succulent and tasty with juicy mussels adding interest. The addition of the cider cream was genius as it lifted the overall flavour of the dish. Pollock is commonly found in UK waters and is a considered a sustainable alternative to Cod or Haddock. Its natural flavour is a little more bland than its cod family relatives so sauces, such as the cider cream here, can be used to enhance it. The UK species (Pollachius pollachius) is a distant relative of the Alaskan (Walleye) Pollock (Theragra chalcogramma) which is one of the most important commercial fisheries in the world.

Daniel Britten is a highly accomplished chef and has honed his skills as a restaurateur since he appeared on Masterchef in 2008.  The Guildford restaurant is elegant with great food and service.  His dishes are interesting but not over elaborate and above all he uses fresh (often local) ingredients in combinations where the flavour of final dish is more than the sum of the individual parts.

Aqua Shard, London

The Shard, London

The Shard, designed by award winning architect, Renzo Piano, spans 72 floors and is the tallest building in Western Europe rising 310m (1016 ft) above the London skyline.

The two latest culinary offerings at the iconic Shard building in London are from the Hong Kong based Aqua restaurant group.  Aqua Shard reviewed here offers contemporary British cuisine from the 31st floor whereas Aqua Hutong (one floor up) is top quality Chinese.  

The location is undeniably stunning with incredible 360 degree views of London further enhanced by the use of copious glass and mirrors to provide a spacious and light interior with incredible views from almost every angle.  Attention to detail is obvious from table positioning to the use of glass walled 'private' dining areas to reduce noise but maximise light. Even the urinals in the Gents have been strategically placed to maximise the view !

Aqua Restaurant Group is the brainchild of ex-Credit Suisse Finance Lawyer, David Yeo and his silent partner, Richard Ward.  They now boast 21 restaurants spread across London, Hong Kong and Beijing, each featuring elegant decor and exciting venues in keeping with David's vision.  They have plans to open more as they move onwards and upwards from their humble beginnings in Hollywood Road, Hong Kong in 2000.  

Iconic settings can often lead to a disappointing eating experience whereby the venue draws the customers so the food is secondary.  However, in the case of Aqua Shard I can vouch that, in my experience, this is not the case.  Chef Anthony Garlando, protege of Michelin 3-star chef Pierre Gagnare, does not disappoint in terms of menu selection, presentation and flavour. We opted, of course, for seafood and I can honestly say that it was some of the best I have ever tasted so the elegant surroundings and stunning views were a real bonus.

Loch Duart Salmon

Grilled Octopus & Mackerel

For starters we had Confit of Loch Duart Salmon with Dorset Crab, Avocado, Pepper Puree, Courgette and Oscietra Caviar. Beautifully crafted it was a delight on the eye and on the palate.  The delicate flavour of this superb salmon combined perfectly with a generous quenelle of the crabmeat and the salty spark of the caviar.  Our other starter was Grilled Octopus and Scottish Mackerel with Tomato Sorbet, Pickled Shallots, Aubergine Dressing and Crispy Potato.  The flavours were more intense in this starter but the combination of the tomato sorbet with the lightly cooked mackerel was perfect and the texture of the grilled Octopus added yet another dimension to this flavourful dish.  The addition of fresh herbs such as Sorrel was another sign of Chef Garlando's skill.

Dover Sole

Roasted Halibut

Our mains were Roasted Halibut and Grilled Dover Sole. The halibut was served on a bed of cockles with pumpkin, Swiss chard and a grilled langoustine.  The Dover Sole was served on the bone but was perfectly skinned and trimmed.  It came with an interesting combination of cubes of Iberico ham, cuttlefish, broad beans and a light foamy sauce of Luscombe Devon Cider. The combination of sweet and salty worked well with the firm meaty texture of the sole.  




All-in-all Aqua Shard was a memorable experience which we would like to repeat soon.  Prices are what you would expect for an up-market restaurant but still represent value for money when you consider the quality.  The view is a real bonus for free !

Seafood at the Leconfield, Petworth

I have eaten dinner several times at the Leconfield, literally since the day it opened, and noticed a transition with time.  The service and general ambience has improved, as it needed to, but one aspect has remained constant throughout ....... the high quality of the food.  In my opinion the head chef, Stuart Dove, is a genius and consistently produces food that tastes and looks amazing. Sarah and I went for lunch (a first for us at the Leconfield) and enjoyed a few fish dishes. 


First up was my  applewood smoked mackerel pate with horseradish cream, cucumber and Avruga caviar salsa with cumin crackers.  Sarah had the Cognac flamed seafood bisque with sliced sour dough and Sussex churned butter.  Both were beautifully presented and had great flavour combinations.  The mackerel pate was smooth and well balanced with the salsa.  Bisque was well seasoned to provide flavours of the sea with a peppery finish.  Main course was crispy fried seabass and tiger prawn tagine with roasted red peppers, coriander couscous, butternut squash and almonds.  The seabass fillet was perfect with succulent flesh under crispy skin - not easy to get as good as this.  Again great flavour combinations with the prawns and couscous.

The only negative was the lack of customers.  It is a very pleasant space for lunch and really not that expensive for the quality of the food.  We had starters and mains from the Prixe-fixe menu at £16.50 each.  So ignore Rod Liddle (Times) and early reviews of this restaurant which were more about service than food.  The service has improved no end and the food is stunning.