Moxon's Fishmonger, Islington, London

Looking for fresh fish in London ? You probably can't do much better than visiting Moxon's in Islington High St. They have an amazing selection of fresh fish and shellfish, sourced by their own specialists at Billingsgate and around the coast. They even have their own fish smoker for Mackerel, Kippers etc.

Islington Manager 'Kev' has a wealth of knowledge with regard to the origins of their produce, how to prepare it and great tips on cooking. But then again he used to be a chef and he is studying marine biology in his spare time. I watched him expertly guide an Italian customer, who had a typical European rapport with seafood, through his purchase of Sea Witch and fresh Octopus.


The shop offers a wide range of produce which included Fines de Claires native oysters, Pacific Oysters from Carlingford, live crab and lobsters, shiny wild Seabass and meaty Turbot.

I bought some Loch Duart Salmon fillet and some beautifully fresh whole Squid which Kev double bagged with an ice pack for me to get it home to Surrey in tip top condition.

Independent fishmongers with Kev's skill, knowledge and enthusiasm are about as rare as Common Skate (ie nearly extinct) so get yourself down to Moxons and sample the freshness of the sea in the heart of London. 

The Wheelhouse, Falmouth, Cornwall

If you love unadulterated, fresh-off-the-rocks shellfish, get yourself straight down to the Wheelhouse and it will not disappoint. Make sure you ring up to book first as this is a 'must-visit' destination in Cornwall and they only open Wednesday to Saturday.  Despite having no website, no twitter and no email they can be booked up for months ahead; especially in the Summer.  It's fame all comes down to word-of-mouth recommendations, which have to be the most reliable sources of real-life opinions when you think about it.

So, what is all the fuss about?  First and foremost it's the quality of the shellfish which is mainly locally sourced (apart from the prawns), extremely fresh and beautifully prepared.  Secondly it is the welcome. This is a restaurant with a surreal, almost storybook-style, tea party atmosphere run by enthusiasts and enjoyed by seafood lovers.  None of your pastel greys and minimalist lines here; the eclectic decor features floral satin wallpaper, illuminated seashells, golden painted cherubs clutching candles and shelves adorned with hats from all walks of life.



We were a large party of 13 hungry tummies and opted for a set menu as recommended by the owner Tina Hopton.  She welcomed us to a table in the centre of the small 'living room' and recommended their modestly priced but very drinkable white wine to accompany our meal.  It took little encouragement for us to try on the various hats for a group photo as the homely, relaxed vibe encouraged our fun loving fan-fare to get stuck in. Having said that there are quieter corners of the room for those wanting an intimate setting to sit and savour the shellfish delights.

Sailors Mussels

Thai Prawns

Our set menu was a bit of a mystery, although exciting, as we had no idea what was to come.  First to arrive were copper bowls brimming with plump and juicy mussels under a blanket of steam, like delicious smelling mist over a moonlit millpond. Some were served Sailor style with white wine, thyme, cream and garlic, others were Thai style with chilli, lime and coconut.  This is very much a hands-on eating experience, as it should be with shellfish, and sharing is the order of the night.  No flimsy napkins here, messy hands is obligatory, but they do provide large bowls of hot water and lots of kitchen rolls to clean yourself up as you go.  


Bowls of skinny fries and tasty could cous cous salads arrived regularly, accompanied by water and of course the wine.

Garlic Prawns

Fresh Crab

Next course was sautéed prawns, again split into two flavour combinations; Garlic Shell-on Prawns and Spicy Peeled Prawns with ginger and chilli.  All the ingredients were fresh so the garlic and chilli really played their part in making these dishes burst with flavour. 


By this point we began to wonder what palate pleaser could be next and we were not disappointed when the waitress arrived, arms bearing copious amounts of meaty whole fresh crab. Prepared in fresh garlic butter and herbs, they were presented (overflowing) in the now familiar copper bowls. Plenty of claws to extract juicy meat from as well as the white and brown body meat which led to intense concentration as our ingenuity was tested to get the most out of these crustaceans. Always a challenge to get the entirety of the crabmeat out but no worries as they boxed up the rest for us to take home.

For the grand finale, we were blessed with pearly scallop shells encasing their sweet meat, vibrant coral roes attached. These had been lightly seared to perfection with an intense citrus butter which included lemon peel. The flavours were intense but mellow and buttery all at the same time and each scallop had been cooked just enough to seal its flavour yet maintain a soft, pillowy texture (something not easily obtained by any means). 

We sensed a slight Portuguese influence at The Wheelhouse with the copper (cataplana) bowls, the fresh high quality shellfish, and all round enthusiasm.  This was further reinforced by the presentation of complimentary Port tasters at the end of the meal.  It turns out that Tina has spent some time in Portugal and was impressed by the way they do this sort of food - who am I to argue?

Sydney Fish Market

If you are in Australia and love seafood then the Sydney Fish Market is a 'must-visit' venue which provides a feast for your eyes and for your stomach ! Here is a pictorial record from my recent visit ….

Mud Crab

Oysters

Rock Lobster

King Crab

Octopus

Spanner Crab

Blue Swimmer Crab

Razor Clams

Langoustines

Snapper

King Salmon

Stone Crab

Seafood Mix

Eagle Ray Wings

Sushi Bar

Grilled Barramundi

Slurping Oysters

Sydney Fish Market

Seafood Platters

Kaspar's Seafood Bar at The Savoy

Looking for a nice lunch in London last week I was intrigued to try Kaspar's, the new seafood restaurant at the Savoy Hotel.  I might have been put off initially by the scathing reviews published by Marina O'Loughlin (Guardian, 01/06/13) and Tracey Macleod (Independent 25/5/13).  However, I have learnt all to well over the years that reviews, good and bad, are written for a variety of reasons many of which have little to do with food. When restaurants first open it is not unusual for the service to suffer which is point number one for reviewers to get their teeth into.  Decor and ambience which is often highlighted can just be a question of personal taste and mood.  Marina and Tracey did not disappoint on either of these, proffering their opinions of the 'blingy' decor and the failure of the staff to deliver.  

I beg to disagree:  the restaurant is a modern glamourous space which manages to combine a traditional seafood bar, complete with green marble worktops and ice displays, with the art deco styling of the original Riverside Grill. Add to this a very contemporary 'shine' and you have Kaspar's.  No dress code and no stuffiness yet it is still a very smart and exciting space with plenty of buzz and atmosphere from enthusiastic diners and the staff preparing dishes behind the bar.  We were given a warm welcome on arrival and appreciated the attentive service throughout the meal.

Yellowfin Tuna Tartare

We opted for a couple of starters with a selection of Rock Oysters (from Jersey and West Mersea) and Yellowfin Tuna Tartare.  Our friendly waiter was helpful and knowledgeable explaining the subtle differences between the oysters whereby the Jersey's were sweeter and the Mersea's had more of a mineral finish.  The tuna was superbly fresh and served with a mild wasabi cream and crisp Melba Toast.  

Smoked Eel and Cured Fish

For main course my wife chose the Isle of Skye 1/2 lobster, grilled, with the garlic butter on the side, which at £19 is pretty reasonable. Chef James Pare explained that all the lobsters are delivered live each morning to ensure maximum freshness and quality.  It did not disappoint with its juicy texture and delicate flavour typical of good European lobster.  I have to question here Marina O'Loughlin's choice of the Lobster Club Sandwich for her review - probably not the best way to enjoy seafood.  I had a selection of smoked and cured fish which included Beetroot Cured Halibut, Citrus Cured Seabass, Smoked Eel and Star Anise Cured Salmon.  All were delicious, moist and flavourful making a nice 'raw' fish alternative to the seemingly ubiquitous sashimi and sushi in London nowadays.



All accompanied with a carafe of crisp Sauvignon Blanc followed by coffee and complimentary chocolate 'lollipops' it was a delicious lunch which was leisurely and special.  We will return.

Eat Seafood and Live Longer

A seafood rich diet means living longer - http://SeafoodSource htt

People in southern Europe who eat what has become known as the Mediterranean diet live longer than their northern European counterparts with a lower incidence of coronary heart disease. Now it has also been shown by a team of Israeli scientists that people who lose weight on a Mediterranean style diet keep the weight off, unlike people who follow other diets. Click here for full article.

By SeafoodSource staff 
15 October, 2012

Seafood Kebabs

Simple to prepare yet good to look at and great to eat are these seafood kebabs.
Marinade whole tiger prawns, monkfish pieces and squid strips in olive oil, crushed garlic, black pepper and lemon juice for about one hour. Arrange the seafood on skewers with pieces of red pepper and red onion. Finish off with a lemon wedge. Grill or barbecue for about 10 mins each side and serve with potatoes and salad. Easy.

Seafood at the Leconfield, Petworth

I have eaten dinner several times at the Leconfield, literally since the day it opened, and noticed a transition with time.  The service and general ambience has improved, as it needed to, but one aspect has remained constant throughout ....... the high quality of the food.  In my opinion the head chef, Stuart Dove, is a genius and consistently produces food that tastes and looks amazing. Sarah and I went for lunch (a first for us at the Leconfield) and enjoyed a few fish dishes. 


First up was my  applewood smoked mackerel pate with horseradish cream, cucumber and Avruga caviar salsa with cumin crackers.  Sarah had the Cognac flamed seafood bisque with sliced sour dough and Sussex churned butter.  Both were beautifully presented and had great flavour combinations.  The mackerel pate was smooth and well balanced with the salsa.  Bisque was well seasoned to provide flavours of the sea with a peppery finish.  Main course was crispy fried seabass and tiger prawn tagine with roasted red peppers, coriander couscous, butternut squash and almonds.  The seabass fillet was perfect with succulent flesh under crispy skin - not easy to get as good as this.  Again great flavour combinations with the prawns and couscous.

The only negative was the lack of customers.  It is a very pleasant space for lunch and really not that expensive for the quality of the food.  We had starters and mains from the Prixe-fixe menu at £16.50 each.  So ignore Rod Liddle (Times) and early reviews of this restaurant which were more about service than food.  The service has improved no end and the food is stunning.

Shellfish in Venice

Apologies as this was taken a little while ago but it is such a great example of fresh seafood which was displayed outside a restaurant in Venice and I thought I would share it with you. In it I can see spider crab, lobster, crayfish, langoustines, octopus, seabass, bream, squid, scallops, oysters.  What a feast, let me know if I have missed anything !