Friday 28 August 2015

The Leconfield, Petworth





Leconfield Restaurant
We have been going to the Leconfield restaurant in Petworth, West Sussex since it first opened several years ago.  There have been many developments since that first visit.  Changes in house manager, chefs and staff training have lead to a better and better dining experience. One significant factor has been guidance from Pascal Proyart, Head Chef at One-o-One, which many (myself included) rate as the best seafood restaurant in London.


So I was really looking forward to dinner there last night.  Initial booking by telephone was pleasant and friendly and this theme continued when we arrived and were greeted by the House Manager and our waitress for the evening.  To our surprise we were told that they now had a new Head Chef who had started just one week before.  Previously Head Chef at The Aubergine restaurant in Marlow, Tim O'Shea now joins the team at the Leconfield and first impressions are very good.


Smoked Haddock Vichyssoise
Tim has managed to create new menus already and there was a sumptuous range on offer on the a la carte menu.  Not all seafood of course, but notable items included Carlingford Rock Oysters, Squid and Octopus Pancha and Baked Dover Sole.  However, we opted for the set menu which offered 2 courses for £25 or 3 courses for £30.  
Smoked haddock, potato, confit hen's egg

To start I ordered the Vichyssoise with Poached Haddock and New Potato. Traditionally this is a thick soup made from leeks, onions, potato, cream and chicken stock but Tim put a wonderful seafood slant to it.  The haddock was braised in milk beforehand and the milky fish-stock was added to the leek and potato mix.  Pieces of the braised haddock and new potato, together with confit hens egg, were presented on the soup plate and the Vichyssoise was added at the table.  The result was a cool, refreshing, creamy (but not rich) soup with subtle fish flavours.

Salmon Canneloni

Main course was the Salmon Cannelloni with Braised Fennel and Vermouth Cream.  Half of the salmon was whipped with cream into a smooth mousse before adding to the remainder in the canneloni.  Delicately braised fennel, star anise and the bold vermouth cream completed this meal perfectly to provide a delicate balance of firm flavours. 


Rounding off with the British and French Cheese with Fig Chutney and Fennel Lavash we enjoyed a lovely evening at the Leconfield.  Full marks for food and service; can this place get any better ? 

Monday 17 August 2015

C-Bay Cafe/Bar/Bistro, Crantock, Cornwall





If you are staying in the Newquay area of Cornwall take a trip along from Fistral beach to the Pentire headland and walk down Riverside Avenue. Next to the cafe you will find a footpath which winds down through the mediterranean vegetation to the Gannel Estuary.  At low tide you can walk across the river (at high tide there is a small ferry) and on to the impressive expanse of yellow sand which is Crantock beach; voted Britain's best beach in 2014 by the Sunday Times.  Every kind of beach activity happens here from surfing to kiting to volleyball to hiking but the beach is large enough to accommodate everyone, with room to spare.  



For a nice lunch wander up the hill on the southern side to the C-Bay Cafe.  With amazing views over the beach and beyond they offer a wide range of meals and snacks in the daytime and evening.

We enjoyed their crispy crumb coated, smoked haddock fishcakes which were light and fluffy with a good flavour.  The moules mariniere were prepared in the traditional way with juicy, plump mussels in a tasty broth with white wine and fresh parsley. 

A very pleasant lunchtime. 




Hooked on the Rocks, Swanpool, Cornwall





Hooked on the Rocks is a quick walk away from the bustle of Falmouth overlooking Swanpool beach with views across Falmouth estuary and over to Pendennis Castle.  They focus on fresh fish and shellfish with an emphasis on sustainability and local produce.  There is a rustic feel in Hooked, which is reminiscent of the superb fish restaurants in southern Portugal. It is not difficult to abide by the displayed house rules of  'relax, relax, relax' ! 





We were there for a light lunch and enjoyed 1/2 dozen local fresh rock oysters accompanied by a crisp Sauvignon Blanc to start.  This was followed by an equally fresh and tasty dressed crab with fries and salad on the side.  

Good food and good service.



Lewinnick Lodge, Newquay, Cornwall





Lewinnick Lodge Room with a View
Located on the Pentire Headland, with views to the open sea and back towards Fistral Beach, is the Lewinnick Lodge.  They describe themselves as a boutique restaurant with designer rooms, superb food and a view to take your breath away.  How can I argue with that as the Lewinnick has become our first choice place to stay when in Cornwall.  My perfect day is breakfast including Eggs Neptune (poached eggs with fresh crabmeat and Hollandaise), body boarding at Fistral (or Crantock) and a superb dinner at the Lewinnick restaurant - always with magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean. 

Their extensive menu offers, as you might expect, a range of seafood options, most of which incorporate fresh local produce.  Indeed it is the freshness and quality of the food which scores it very highly in my book.  

I will describe the some of the seafood options here but I can recommend first hand also some of the other dishes sampled including the flavoursome Cauliflower Cheese Soup and juicy Sirloin Steak (a steal at £19).


Cornish Sardines
Scallop Ceviche
One of the starters on the 'specials' menu was Scallop Ceviche.  Four raw fresh scallops which had been marinaded with chilli, red onion, smoked garlic oil, rocket peppers, coriander and lime. Presented with pomegranate seeds this light and succulent dish had subtle delicious flavours.
Another starter was the Grilled Cornish Sardines served with fennel, orange, grapefruit, pine nuts and salsa verde.  The citrus fruits cut nicely through the sardine oil in these beautifully fresh fish.  The sardine fishery in Cornwall has increased significantly in recent years probably as a result of sea temperature rise due to climate change.  Cornish sardines (Sardina pilchardus) is a pelagic (open water) fish which is classed as fully sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council

For main course which we enjoyed Pan Fried Cod Fillet with elderflower cream sauce, shallots, samphire, gnocchi, peas, clams and blackberries.  Translucent cod with crispy skin - it doesn't get any better. 

If you are looking for seafood (or meat) which is expertly prepared and served with a smile this has to be on your list.  The overall experience in the restaurant and rooms is second to none - friendly, helpful and great quality.




Tuesday 11 August 2015

The Crab Shed, Salcombe, Devon



The Crab Shed in Salcombe

This rustic-style restaurant, situated near to the Fish Quay in Salcombe, has only been open a year but has already established a good reputation for fresh seafood, in particular crab and lobster.  This may not be surprising as the restaurant is perched over their own crab factory where they produce hand picked fresh crabmeat.  They also source fish and shellfish directly from the local boats.  As always, the key to the best seafood is freshness and quality and in these respects The Crab Shed hits the mark.




Whole fresh crab was an obvious choice here and we were not disappointed.  The large crab provided had been caught and cooked within the previous 24 hours.  The crab arrived prepared and on a bed of crisp, fresh mixed salad.  A side order of fries completed the meal !  At the Crab Shed they remove the brown and white body meat from their crabs and mix together before pressing back into the shell.  The claws are intact and contain the usual high quality white claw-meat.  This ensures that all the crabs served are of consistent quality and crammed with a generous portion of the freshest crabmeat. An alternative dish which we tried was the crabmeat on fresh bread with avocado and salad.  Again the emphasis was on quality and freshness of all the ingredients. If you want an unbeatable fresh crab experience then head down to The Crab Shed in Salcombe - you won't regret it.

South Sands Hotel, Salcombe, Devon


South Sands view

Pan seared scallops
This contemporary boutique hotel is situated right next to the beach in South Sands Bay just over a mile from Salcombe. 

The beautiful beachside restaurant serves fresh local seafood expertly prepared and presented.  An emphasis on local produce ensures freshness and quality in their flavoursome dishes. 






For starters I opted for the pan-fried scallops with minted pea ketchup, Parma ham crisp and lemon pea dressing.  The lightly seared scallops were fresh and succulent and melted into the subtle flavours of the pea and lemon

Pan fried turbot

River Exe mussels
For main courses we ordered the River Exe mussels and the 'fish of the day'. The mussels were described as 'mariniere style' and the chef certainly produced a delicious variation of the French classic dish.  The sauce was creamy, almost Béchamel in texture, and packed with flavours of garlic, ginger and herbs.  The 'fish of the day' was pan-fried Turbot with a sweet chilli chutney.  Always a favourite of mine this did not disappoint.  The meaty fish was white and moist with a  crispy skin which was a tasty treat.





Fish sharing tapas plate

Grilled sardines
Other dishes worthy of a mention included the beachside sharing tapas fish dish which comprised calamari (in a light batter), smoked salmon and char grilled prawns along with the grilled Cornish sardines with tomato chili and lime dressing.  Both superb as starter, main or just to share with a beer or glass of wine.







These are just a few examples of the wide range of excellent seafood dishes on offer at the South Sands Hotel.  We look forward to returning to enjoy some more of them.