Hawksmoor Air Street London

The Hawksmoor Air Street only opened in November but is already attracting good reviews. Unlike the other Hawksmoor restaurants this one doesn't only do great steaks. They have included a nice selection of seafood but not in a 'tacked on' way; they have teamed up with Mitch Tonks from Dartmouth to develop a seafood menu of high quality. The result in my opinion is great meat and equally great seafood with no compromises.
We had the seared scallops which were cooked with white wine , herb butter and sea salt. They were delicious and cooked to perfection. Main course was the monkfish which was well seasoned and grilled over charcoal. The result was succulent and very tasty with sides of fries and spinach with lemon and garlic. Service was friendly and helpful thanks to our waitress Aleksandra who was very knowledgeable about the food. We will go again.

Fish Curry

I made this delicious fish curry today and it was simple to make so here are the basics. Cut Tilapia fillets into strips and lay in the bottom of an ovenproof dish with raw shelled prawns. Chop one onion and spread over the fish. Sprinkle with slices of fresh garlic, ginger and sweet pepper. Squeeze the juice of one fresh lime on the top. Add a large jar of Tikka Masala cook-in sauce and leave to marinade in a cool place for an hour or so. Bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes then serve with brown rice, spinach and a slice of lime. Enjoy.

Wines to go with Oysters

Having completed an extensive but by no means comprehensive trial of various wines which go well with oysters (a tough job I know) here are my top 5 recommendations for 2012.

Rock oysters and Chablis

Chablis 2011, Vocoret (Majestic £10.99)  
This wine is produced in one of the northernmost wine growing areas in the world where a combination of cool weather, limestone soils and Kimmeridgian clay produces one of the most iconic wine styles. Steely and mineral aromas with citrus fruits, limestone and slate provide a crisp, fresh and vibrant palate.  

Domaine de Villargeau 2011, Coteaux du Giennois(Majestic £8.99) 
This small appellation has only 91 hectares planted with Sauvignon vines and as it lives in the shadow of its neighbour, Pouilly Fume, its wines often slip under the radar and are hence excellent value.  Classic goosebery on the nose is intense and leads to a palate bursting with lime and nettle delivered with a clean crisp finish. 


Sancerre 2011, Calvet (Waitrose £9.99)
One of the most famous white wines in France, the Sancerre appellation is produced in 15 villages. An aromatic bouquet with white flowers and citrus fruits with flinty notes which perfectly complements the minerality of oysters.

2011 Picpoul de Pinet, Coteaux de Languedoc (M and S, £7.99) 
 Just a few miles from the Mediterranean coastline comes this crisp and zesty wine made from the Picpoul grape.  With a nose of lemon and lime, followed by green apple with a refreshingly dry and acidic finish.

2012 Sauvignon Blanc, Malborough Ragged Point (Majestic £5.99)
Typical Malborough characters of gooseberry, nettle and hints of tomato leaf on the nose.  Palate fruit is predominantly green apple and citrus with suggestions of melon, framed by intense acidity.

Crab Balchao

Soft shell crab is one of my favourite small dishes as a starter or appetiser.  I have eaten it in many different styles including Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese and American.  Having an Indian version was new to me so I jumped at the opportunity when it appeared on the menu at Meghdoots restaurant in Petworth.  The crab was prepared in a light batter with ginger, garlic, vinegar and crushed peppercorns, topped with mango chutney and served with a yoghurt dip and salad garnish.  This delicious starter was developed for Meghdoot's recent Goan Food Fiesta which featured a guest Goan chef and offered a range of speciality dishes including King Prawn Cafreal (king prawns in a mint and coriander sauce with coconut) and Fish Ambot Tik (roasted hot and sour fish served with traditional Goan spices and served dry). Owner Sanjay Jha heralded the fiesta a huge success which was sold out every night, so check out Meghdoots website.    

The Caxton Grill - London SW1

Hotel 41 is No1 on TripAdvisor for London and its easy to see why.  From the moment you arrive nothing is too much trouble and if you do have a problem you are compensated. It is a 5 star hotel which is situated on the top (5th) floor of the Rubens Hotel (4*) on Buckingham Palace Road (SW1).  An oasis of calm this small select hotel feels more like a private club with the central library (Executive Lounge) providing the hub.  Great personal service which included complimentary champagne (choice of four leading marques) and comfortable quiet rooms provided a wonderfully calm ambience.  However, they do not have a restaurant so after reading the reviews on Square Meal we headed to the Caxton Grill at the St. Ermin's Hotel which is about 10 minutes walk away. 

Squid Ink Raviola with Crab

 The hotel lobby at St Ermin's has an impressive array of grand terraces and chandeliers but initial impressions of the restaurant were that it is a bit 'ordinary' by comparison.  That was soon forgotten however as we were directed to our table and our Portuguese waiter, Ivo explained the menu choices.  He was fully informed about all of the dishes which we had questions about and was most helpful throughout the meal.  For starters I had the Squid Ink Raviolo which was stuffed with fresh Devon crabmeat and Sea Fennel, topped with Coriander Gremolata in Crab Bisque. Ivo told me it was his favourite and I think it will be mine too (once I have been back to try all the others !). 

Dover Sole

For main course we ordered the 'Catch of the Day' which was whole Dover Sole grilled in the Josper Grill. Of Spanish origin, the Josper is a charcoal based 'closed draught barbeque' that cooks super fast at incredibly hot temperatures and (as the argument goes) more thoroughly than any other option as the heat is distributed evenly from above, below, left and right of whatever’s been placed on the grill. In my opinion overcooking fish is the worst thing you can do so I was interested to see the results by this method.  I needn't have worried, Executive Chef, Hus Vedat, is a very talented.  The Dover Sole was skinned topside only then cooked upside down which allowed the fish to cook beneath the skin to the perfect result.  Dressed with burnt butter and lemon soaked almonds it was simply delicious.  

Fishing with Carlos

Spent a nice day at Zavial fishing with Carlos Ramos. We caught 4 fish, all too small to keep but it was lovely sunny weather. Carlos is the owner of O Cantinho Algarvio, a restaurant in Lagos which offers a range of fresh fish dishes. Thankfully Carlos doesn't rely on his catches but buys fresh fish from the local market every morning.

Spicy Seabass

The European seabass, Dicentrarchus labrax, is primarily an oceanic fish which frequents the shores and estuaries of the UK in the summer months.  Often seen feeding with shoals of Mackerel they provide great sport for sea anglers, especially using lighter tackle.  On a recent fishing trip from Hayling Island I spotted a guy in waders fly-fishing for Bass at the entrance to the Langstone Harbour. What a great way to spend a few hours in the early morning sunshine on a beautiful calm day.

Much of the seabass we eat now is farmed. More than 100,000 tonnes of sea bass were farmed in 2008, compared to the total European wild catch of approximately 7,660 tonnes that year. Provided it is sourced from a well managed farm (check with your fishmonger), it is difficult to taste the difference between farmed and fresh although you will see a difference in price with wild being up to twice the the cost of farmed.  Wild fish vary more in size and tend to be larger. Also the flavour of wild fish is affected by their diet so that can vary depending on their location.

Seabass flesh is white, soft and has a delicate sweetness in flavour.  So, why would you want to upset this delicate balance by cooking a spicy version.  I would agree except that Meghdoots restaurant in Petworth is not your average curry house.  It is a restaurant with skilled chefs who prepare all of their dishes freshly to order. Owners Sanjay and Mili set very high standards and have never failed to impress me on any visit.  The 'special' last friday was Pudeena Machii, fresh seabass blended in a mint and spice marinade and finished in the Tandoor.  The fish retained its fresh moist texture and sweetness but it was combined perfectly with the spices to produce a well balanced dish.  Essentially this is a dry curry so I added a black lentil dal and Palak Chawal (spinach rice).  A great combination which resulted in  a light and very tasty meal.

Eat Seafood and Live Longer

A seafood rich diet means living longer - http://SeafoodSource htt

People in southern Europe who eat what has become known as the Mediterranean diet live longer than their northern European counterparts with a lower incidence of coronary heart disease. Now it has also been shown by a team of Israeli scientists that people who lose weight on a Mediterranean style diet keep the weight off, unlike people who follow other diets. Click here for full article.

By SeafoodSource staff 
15 October, 2012

Singapore Chilli Crab at The Seafood Restaurant

I am grateful for this review from Steve Counter who recently enjoyed this dish (and others) at Rick Stein's Seafood Restaurant in Padstow.   I remember a demonstration on how to prepare this crab when I attended the  Rick Stein Seafood School several years ago.

'I have to say that choosing a main course at Rick Stein's Seafood Restaurant was nearly an
impossible task as I would quite happily eat them all. However after 15 minutes deliberation I plumped for the Singapore Chilli Crab.

Well what to say - if you like working hard for your food then this is a must. When your course arrives you must have well over a kilo of what can only be described as gorgeous, full flavoured whole crab with so much white meat, all stir-fried with garlic, ginger, chilli and coriander. Every mouthful was a good as the next, superbly cooked and totally amazing. Wow, wow wow.'  
Steve Counter 6/10/2012

Oysters at Wright Brothers in Soho

In my enviable task of trying different wines with oysters I found myself in Wright Brothers restaurant near to Carnaby Street in London.  They specialise in oysters and offer a range of native and rock varieties according to season and availability.  We tried two different types of rock oyster.  The Cumbrae oyster, from Scotland, was slightly creamy with a medium mineral finish.  The Speciales de Claires from France were sweeter which, I was informed, results from them spending some of their life in fresh water. In both cases, as a bit of a purist, I only added freshly squeezed lemon juice, so the shallots in red wine vinegar remained untouched. The chosen wine was a 2011 'single vineyard' Hilltop Pinot Grigio from Hungary.  This crisp fresh wine worked very well with the oysters. 

Oysters with Picpoul de Pinet

A popular wine to accompany oysters, as recommended on Twitter by Waitrose, Majestic Wines and Languedoc Wines was Picpoul de Pinet.  I purchased a bottle of 2011 Domaine de Morin - Langaran from the Haslemere Wine Cellar for £9:50. Domaine Morin Langaran sits on a slightly raised flat of land looking out over oyster beds of Bouzigues in the Etang de Thau. The citrus zestiness of this well chilled wine developed fully about 10-15 minutes after opening. A dozen Colchester rock oysters from The Good Fish Shop (Haslemere) were shucked and freshly squeezed lemon juice added.  These No3 oysters had a superb mineral quality and the wine worked very well with them.  

Wines which go well with Oysters

Oysters are often compared with wines when described using terms such as 'mineral finish' etc. Classic choices include crisp white Sauvignons and in particular Sancerre, Muscadet and dry Champagnes ( if you have the budget).
Now the oyster season has started in the UK we will be comparing a range of wines ( all under a tenner) to complement native and rock oysters.

We would be pleased to hear your views too so let us know your favourites and we will share them here.

Seafood Kebabs

Simple to prepare yet good to look at and great to eat are these seafood kebabs.
Marinade whole tiger prawns, monkfish pieces and squid strips in olive oil, crushed garlic, black pepper and lemon juice for about one hour. Arrange the seafood on skewers with pieces of red pepper and red onion. Finish off with a lemon wedge. Grill or barbecue for about 10 mins each side and serve with potatoes and salad. Easy.

Fine wines and tapas in Lagos, Portugal

Portugal produces some high quality wines particularly from regions such as Douro, Dao and Alentejo but they are not always easy to find in restaurants. Visit Hortela-Pimenta in central Lagos and you will be spoilt for choice. Not only do they stock some of the finest wines (at prices to suit all pockets), the staff Rebecca and Sarah offer helpful advice when choosing. This modern wine bar, which would be equally accepted in Lisbon or London, is run by owners Sandra Korreia and Nuno Soares Franco. Sandra runs the front of house and has a good knowledge of wine, food and presentation and welcomes customers with her warm personality. Nuno is an accomplished chef who trained at a top hotel. His food creations are attractively presented and offer exciting combinations of flavours. Seafood options include Octopus Stew in Red Wine, Sautéed Garlic Prawns and Scallops with Garden Greens and Olive/Orange Dressing (pictured). So, for sophistication, great food and high quality wines visit Hortela-Pimenta.

Fine Dining in Porto de Mos

Senses restaurant is situated at the Cascades Hotel near to Porto de Mos. Chef Luis Batalha produces stunning combinations of flavours and colours.

Our starters included, lime and papaya soup with scallop ceviche, hot and cold tiger prawn with sesame and asparagus salad. For main we tried the turbot in crispy herb blanket with spinach risotto and a canneloni of chickpea pure in roasted red pepper. All were beautifully presented in this stylish restaurant with good service.
Our waiter kindly provided us with a range of wines to try before we decided on a bottle of 2010 Casa de Santar Reserva from the Dao region. This white wine was dry with a mineral finish and worked well with the fish.

O Camilo, Lagos, Portugal

This contemporary restaurant was opened just over a year ago on the site of the original rustic version which operated as a family business for over 30 years. Now run by the son, Francisco, the new version, designed by a prominent local architect is modern and stylish with beautiful views across the bay towards Portimao.
The food is equally impressive with a wide variety of fresh fish on display including John Dory, Seabass, Bream, Red Mullet, Snapper and Alvor Oysters
We enjoyed Linguado (Sole) which was simply grilled with fresh vegetables and tasty potatoes in butter, garlic and oregano. Francisco recommended a Douro white wine which was well rounded and matched the fish perfectly. We enjoyed our meal at O Camilo and judging by the numbers in the restaurant so did a lot of other people.

Quality shellfish at O Cantinho Algarvio

Lobster and crab from the live tank at this quality restaurant in Lagos, Portugal. The lobster is simply grilled with a little butter. The crab is dressed with chopped pickles, mayo and a little bit of beer ! Delicious.

Great seafood at The Orange in Pimlico

Just eaten a lovely meal at The Orange in London. Delicious Carlingford rock oysters to start which were creamy with a good mineral finish complemented with a glass of Provençal rose wine. It's lemon wedges only for me with oysters as I feel that the shallot vinegar option swamps the flavour.
Main was Hake fillet on cauliflower purée with broad beans, spaghetti and pancetta. Hake was cooked to perfection (not overcooked and slightly translucent). Great cuisine from head chef Nigel and good service from Jono thanks.


Hake fish comes from the same order (Gadiformes) as cod and haddock. The only Hake species that is considered not to be over-fished is Cape hake, which is found in Zone 47-Namibia, according to the Worldwide Fund.

Cured Salmon in Tuscany

This starter was prepared by the highly talented chef at the Piopponero (Black Poplar) restaurant at Villa Le Maschere, a 5 star resort hotel in the Tuscan hills about 1/2 hour from Florence.

It is marinated Norwegian salmon, flavoured with dill and combined with shavings of fennel bulb, green apple and ginger salad.

Like all the food at this hotel, it was DELICIOUS.  Thick cut succulent salmon, mildly cured with a hint of Dill.

A bottle of the very reasonably priced Orvieto Classico complemented it perfectly.


We enjoyed a range of seafood at this hotel including raw Langoustine (the largest ones I have ever seen), fresh rock oysters, sushi salmon and tuna sashimi and salt codfish.

Fresh Fish in Lagos, Portugal

Fresh fish in the market at Lagos

The fishing port of Lagos in the Algarve region of Portugal offers some of the finest quality fresh fish and shellfish much of which is landed and sold within 24 hours.  Many local day boats fish the productive Portuguese waters which are rich in nutrients due to the upwelling of cooler waters from the deeper Atlantic Ocean.  Locals and visitors flock to the Lagos fish market to take in the sights of a range of interesting fish and to buy for home cooking, barbecues and restaurants.




One of the restaurants which specialises in high quality seafood is O'Cantinho Algarvio in Rua Afonso de Almeida (just up from the square).  Proprietor, Carlos Ramos, can often be seen in the market choosing the best fish for his menu that night.  One of his 'secret' specialities and my particular favourite is the fillet of Turbot which is coated in a light flour and pan-fried. He also has a live-tank for the freshest lobster and crab.

Attention to detail is the key to high quality cuisine.  Here, Carlos is choosing a large Corvina which he will cut into steaks and store vac-packed in the fridge to ensure maximum freshness.  I noticed that his chosen fish had a hook in its mouth and he explained that line-caught fish were of better quality than those caught in trawl nets.  Generally speaking line-caught fish are preferred environmentally as hand-lining has minimal effect on seabed habitats.


Corvina ( Argyrosomus regia ) is known in English as the Meagre, and is one of the most traditional and valued fish on the Algarve.

Fish Head for Lunch !

A delicacy much enjoyed by the Portuguese is boiled Pargo (Red Porgy) head.  This fish was on display at O' Antonio in Porto de Mos near Lagos in the Algarve.  One of the waiters, Helder, who is a keen fisherman and seafood eater explained that they will boil the head whole with just onions and salt and serve it to the table.  The diners will then pick the meat (including the eyes) away from the bones of the head.  It might sound a bit gruesome to those of you who are a little sensitive but I am assured that it is delicious.  It is also a plus-point that almost none of the fish is wasted.
The red porgy (Pagrus pagrus), or common seabream, is a species of fish in the family Sparidae, found in a wide variety of locations that range from Europe to the Caribbean. 

Oyster Bar at Grand Central NYC

No trip to New York is complete without a visit to the Oyster Bar at Grand Central.  This Spring was no exception when we enjoyed a Medley of Seafood Platter with 5 different varieties (2 of each) of oyster plus jumbo shrimp, clams, NZ mussels and 1/2 lobster.  All in at $46 (£30) this represented pretty good value where the quality and freshness of the seafood was excellent.  A 2009 Domaine Fournier Sancerre (2009), with its good mineral finish, complemented the shellfish perfectly. The Oyster Bar offers wide a range of oysters (according to season) and the daily offerings can be viewed at their online menu .

On this lunchtime visit we were seated in the bar area at the back which, in my opinion, is not as good as the 'catacombs' in the main restaurant as it is a bit cramped with small tables.

Grand Central Terminal is an amazing station with a cathedral-like main concours and over 60 shops and restaurants.  A great place to visit even if you are not travelling on a train.

The native oyster (Ostrea edulis) and, particularly, the introduced Pacific oyster (Crassostrea gigas) are both grown commercially and are available widely. Oysters should be tightly closed when bought and have a fresh smell when opened. Often eaten raw, they are offered with a range of add-ons such as Tabasco sauce, chopped shallots in red wine vinegar and fresh lemon wedges.  For me, I always choose the lemon as it best enhances the delicate flavour and mineral finish of the oyster on the palate.   According to the Marine Conservation Society, farmed native or Pacific oysters offer a highly sustainable source of seafood.


A comprehensive and practical guide to oysters is offered online by Molly Watson.

Barbecue Brill

Some people may not consider large flatfish for the barbecue but with a little care and attention they offer a stunning presentation visually and the highest quality in fish cuisine.  I purchased, from The Good Fish Shop,  2 medium sized Brill ( 600g each) as a meal for 2 people (i.e. 1 each).  Make a few diagonal cuts in the top of each fish and press in 1/2 slice of fresh lemon.  Season with black pepper and drizzle some olive oil on top.  Finally sprinkle some Fennel leaves (the frilly bit) on the top.  Slice one large Fennel bulb longways into discs and place on the preheated barbecue griddle and lay the Brill on top.  The Fennel prevents the Brill from sticking to the barbecue and imparts a wonderful subtle aniseed flavour to the fish.  Place an upturned baking tray on top to contain the heat thereby cooking both sides of the fish at once.  As you do not need to turn the fish over it keeps together and looks stunning on the plate.  I barbecued these Brill in about 20 minutes and they were cooked to perfection with moist, almost translucent flakes of flavoursome fish.


According to the Marine Conservation Society, fisheries for Brill (Scophthalmus rhombus) are poorly managed. Due to lack of data there is no assessment of populations or stock. Choose Brill caught by demersal otter trawl, or static nets rather than beam trawled fish. 

Grilled Dover Sole

One of the great classic fish dishes, Dover Sole (Solea solea) is in great condition at this time of year.  But quality comes at a price and it is not unusual to pay £35 per Kg in a fishmonger and £25 - £40 for a Dover Sole in a restaurant.  I bought this fish at The Good Fish Shop in Haslemere where they were on offer at a bargain price of £18 per Kg.  My fish cost me £12 and was ample for two people.  Ask your fishmonger to skin (both sides) and trim it (fins and tail) so it is ready for grilling.  Simply season with pepper, a little sea-salt, a drizzle of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice and grill or bake for about 15 minutes for a 750g fish.  I prefer to bake it in a sealed pan which keeps the fish moist.  Serve with a knob of butter and seasonal vegetables.
The most sustainable choices for Dover Sole are those caught in the Eastern Channel or North Sea of the NE Atlantic using Gill Nets or Otter Trawls (Fishonline).

Sushi at the Park Plaza, London

Ordered this combination plate at the Ichi Sushi restaurant in the Park Plaza hotel, Westminster.  My wife and I had stayed here a couple of nights earlier and I was so impressed that I returned there after work with my son.  Started off with Edamame beans then we had the combination plate which comprised spicy tuna and crab rolls, tuna, prawn, eel and salmon nigiri and sashimi of salmon, tuna and seabass.
All beautifully prepared and presented.  At £40 it's not the cheapest but it is worth it for the quality.

Monkfish Medallions with Bacon on Pak Choi

White Monkfish ( Lophius piscatorius), also known as Angler Fish, is an ugly beast which used to be discarded by commercial fisherman as worthless.  Nowadays however its white tail fillets which are quite meaty in texture command a high price on the fishmongers stall.  In the UK it is usually displayed and sold as pre-skinned white fillets with the large head discarded.  However in European countries such as Spain and Portugal you will be offered the whole fish so you can use the head for fish stock or in soups.  


According to the Marine Conservation Society most sources of Monkfish are not sustainable with the best stock management taking place in Icelandic waters.  They recommend that Monkfish should be eaten only occasionally which is good advice considering also the price tag. More sustainable alternatives include Mullet, Gurnard and Tilapia.


Being a 'meaty' fish it combines well with the bacon in this recipe.  Cut your skinned fillet into medallions about 2cm thick.  They will vary in diameter according to where you cut the fillet but that doesn't matter.  Wrap a piece of smoked bacon around each fillet and season with salt and pepper.  Bake in a closed dish (foil will do) in a hot oven for about 20 minutes.  Serve on a bed of finely chopped  Pak Choi tossed in butter. In this meal I added fresh pasta ravioli with butternut squash and beetroot on the side.

Battered Gurnard and Chips

Battered Gurnard and Chips

Friday fish and chip lunch using Gurnard instead of Cod or Haddock. I battered the skinned fish fillets using a light tempura style batter and deep fried it in vegetable oil. Combined with chunky chips and tomato ketchup, what a tasty lunch ! I bought two Gurnard whole from the Good Fish Shop in Haslemere where John, the fishmonger, filleted and skinned them for me. There is a lot of waste with Gurnard but the fillets are meaty and firm and these 2 fish cost £5 which is pretty good value. Gurnard (Aspitrigla cuculus ) is a highly sustainable choice being a fast growing species which matures early to a good size.  It is rated 2 (good choice) by the Marine Conservation Society on their Fish Online website.

New years eve in Florence

Arancine of cuttlefish

Enjoyed a wonderful New Years Eve at the Frescobaldi restaurant at Piazza della Signoria in Florence. The 9 course menu was was superb with a selection of stunning wines to accompany including a bottle of Spumante for each table to celebrate at midnight.

Seafood dishes included Arancine (which literally means 'an orange which has fallen from the tree') of durum wheat stuffed with cuttlefish and diced vegetable and served on a disk of yellow squash.  The durum wheat 'semolina', similiar to large cous cous, was soaked in the cuttlefish ink which provided texture and flavour.

Sauteed scallops

The scallops sauteed in black butter and Rosemary with green onion compote, rice balls and steamed shrimp with caviar were a superb combination accompanied by the 2003 Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino.

After the midnight celebration there was a raffle for bottles of the wines we had enjoyed during the night and we won 2 bottles of the 40 Altari 2006, Vin Santo del Chianti D.O.C. (dessert wine) and a magnum of the Toscana I.G.T. red , Tenuta Luce della Vite, Lucente 2007.  As we were flying back to London with only hand luggage we donated our winnings to the hard working staff at the restaurant so we hope you enjoyed it !

A four and a half hour dinner to celebrate the new year of 2012 !