The Wheelhouse, Falmouth, Cornwall

If you love unadulterated, fresh-off-the-rocks shellfish, get yourself straight down to the Wheelhouse and it will not disappoint. Make sure you ring up to book first as this is a 'must-visit' destination in Cornwall and they only open Wednesday to Saturday.  Despite having no website, no twitter and no email they can be booked up for months ahead; especially in the Summer.  It's fame all comes down to word-of-mouth recommendations, which have to be the most reliable sources of real-life opinions when you think about it.

So, what is all the fuss about?  First and foremost it's the quality of the shellfish which is mainly locally sourced (apart from the prawns), extremely fresh and beautifully prepared.  Secondly it is the welcome. This is a restaurant with a surreal, almost storybook-style, tea party atmosphere run by enthusiasts and enjoyed by seafood lovers.  None of your pastel greys and minimalist lines here; the eclectic decor features floral satin wallpaper, illuminated seashells, golden painted cherubs clutching candles and shelves adorned with hats from all walks of life.



We were a large party of 13 hungry tummies and opted for a set menu as recommended by the owner Tina Hopton.  She welcomed us to a table in the centre of the small 'living room' and recommended their modestly priced but very drinkable white wine to accompany our meal.  It took little encouragement for us to try on the various hats for a group photo as the homely, relaxed vibe encouraged our fun loving fan-fare to get stuck in. Having said that there are quieter corners of the room for those wanting an intimate setting to sit and savour the shellfish delights.

Sailors Mussels

Thai Prawns

Our set menu was a bit of a mystery, although exciting, as we had no idea what was to come.  First to arrive were copper bowls brimming with plump and juicy mussels under a blanket of steam, like delicious smelling mist over a moonlit millpond. Some were served Sailor style with white wine, thyme, cream and garlic, others were Thai style with chilli, lime and coconut.  This is very much a hands-on eating experience, as it should be with shellfish, and sharing is the order of the night.  No flimsy napkins here, messy hands is obligatory, but they do provide large bowls of hot water and lots of kitchen rolls to clean yourself up as you go.  


Bowls of skinny fries and tasty could cous cous salads arrived regularly, accompanied by water and of course the wine.

Garlic Prawns

Fresh Crab

Next course was sautéed prawns, again split into two flavour combinations; Garlic Shell-on Prawns and Spicy Peeled Prawns with ginger and chilli.  All the ingredients were fresh so the garlic and chilli really played their part in making these dishes burst with flavour. 


By this point we began to wonder what palate pleaser could be next and we were not disappointed when the waitress arrived, arms bearing copious amounts of meaty whole fresh crab. Prepared in fresh garlic butter and herbs, they were presented (overflowing) in the now familiar copper bowls. Plenty of claws to extract juicy meat from as well as the white and brown body meat which led to intense concentration as our ingenuity was tested to get the most out of these crustaceans. Always a challenge to get the entirety of the crabmeat out but no worries as they boxed up the rest for us to take home.

For the grand finale, we were blessed with pearly scallop shells encasing their sweet meat, vibrant coral roes attached. These had been lightly seared to perfection with an intense citrus butter which included lemon peel. The flavours were intense but mellow and buttery all at the same time and each scallop had been cooked just enough to seal its flavour yet maintain a soft, pillowy texture (something not easily obtained by any means). 

We sensed a slight Portuguese influence at The Wheelhouse with the copper (cataplana) bowls, the fresh high quality shellfish, and all round enthusiasm.  This was further reinforced by the presentation of complimentary Port tasters at the end of the meal.  It turns out that Tina has spent some time in Portugal and was impressed by the way they do this sort of food - who am I to argue?

Hooked on the Rocks, Swanpool, Cornwall

Hooked on the Rocks, Swanpool, Cornwall

Hooked on the Rocks is a quick walk away from the bustle of Falmouth overlooking Swanpool beach with views across Falmouth estuary and over to Pendennis Castle.  They focus on fresh fish and shellfish with an emphasis on sustainability and local produce.  There is a rustic feel in Hooked, which is reminiscent of the superb fish restaurants in southern Portugal. It is not difficult to abide by the displayed house rules of  'relax, relax, relax' ! 

We were there for a light lunch and enjoyed 1/2 dozen local fresh rock oysters accompanied by a crisp Sauvignon Blanc to start.  This was followed by an equally fresh and tasty dressed crab with fries and salad on the side.  

Good food and good service.

Masterchef Popup Restaurant, London

Many of us probably have a restaurant where we know the chef well enough at least to exchange greetings and comment on the food.  But how about going to a smart restaurant in central London for the first time and feeling that you know so much about the chefs and their lives that they feel like part of your family.  Such is the power of television.  Masterchef exposes every facet of the contestants character as they prepare dishes, under pressure, for close scrutiny not only by the judges, Greg Wallace (@greggawallace ) and John Torode (@johntorode1), but also by viewers, many of whom will voice their opinion via social media.  So, arriving at the Blue Fin Building in London for lunch last Sunday at the Masterchef Restaurant, everyone must have felt that they already knew the chefs. This was enhanced by their presence in the dining room where they enthusiastically shared views and ideas with the diners. One big happy family !

The Masterchef Restaurant is a 'popup' which brings together champions and finalists from the past 10 years to create bespoke menus for a five week period.  We booked for lunch on the first Sunday ( 7th Sept) and our chefs were the 2014 winner Ping Coombes ( @wanpingcoombes ) and finalists Jack Lucas ( @jacklucas1) and Luke Owen ( @master chef_luke ).  The popup is located on the South Bank in the Blue Fin Building, so called because it is covered in 2,000 blue aluminium fins, each with a metallic finish that changes the building’s appearance from different positions. 

On arrival we were directed to the 11th floor roof terrace to enjoy a glass of champagne and to take in the stunning view of the Thames and London skyline which includes iconic buildings such as St. Pauls, The Shard and The Gherkin. The restaurant on the 10th floor was very contemporary with clean lines and lots of glass which allowed us to enjoy the views throughout the meal. The menu comprised 3 courses with a choice of two items per course each of which was attributed to the chef.  We opted for one of each so we could taste them all and we were not disappointed. Not all were seafood of course but they are each worth a mention. 

For starters, I had the Shellfish Arancini with prawn cocktail garnish which was the only dish designed by Luke. The crusted ball of risotto rice was packed with flavour and garnished with prawns and cocktail sauce.  I admit I had slight worries by the thought of the seventies-style sauce but Luke had given it a spicy lift with chilli which worked perfectly.  He explained to me later that the intensity of flavour in the rice resulted from the shellfish stock which he had prepared from prawn shells, celery, sherry and wine. The other starter was the Pork Sandwich designed by Ping. This was braised pork belly in a bao with crackling and sesame salad. The light steamed bun combined perfectly with the succulent meat and oriental sauce.  

For main the Prawn Laksa was also one of Ping's creations. Laksa is a popular spicy noodle soup which is combination of Chinese and Malay cuisine. The aromatic, spicy broth was prepared with lemongrass, galangal (a root from the ginger family), coconut and shrimps.  This was served with soft noodles, tiger prawns and garnish. A perfect combination and with Ping's 'special spices' the dish was light, flavoursome and satisfying. 

The main course designed by Jack was Cannon of Lamb with a breaded shoulder croquette, pea and mint puree, mashed potatoes, anchovy vinaigrette and redcurrant sauce.  The melt-in-your-mouth lamb was flavoursome and cooked to perfection with smooth creamy mash and intense pea puree…..delicious…... and that is from a seafood fanatic !

Ping's Pudding was Coconut and Pandan Panna Cotta  with chargrilled pineapple, compressed mango, lime and lemongrass granite. Great depth of flavour here from the fruit together with delicate panna cotta reminded us of Ping's skill in creating successful combinations with all types of food.

 Jack's pudding was Indulgent Chocolate Tart with orange yoghurt ice-cream, candied orange and popping candy crumb with an indulgent addition of edible gold leaf. All presented on the almost obligatory 'buttery biscuit base'. 

All in all this was a great event with good service and excellent food.  The atmosphere was convivial with no rush or panic (at least not at front of house) and we could take our time to enjoy it all.  All three chefs took the time to engage with the diners in a very relaxed and friendly way despite the fact that they had just prepared lunch for 150  having already prepared brunch earlier and had dinner to come.  So 'hats off' to the chefs but also to the organisers and support staff who created a very pleasant experience which in no way felt contrived. 

Quality shellfish at O Cantinho Algarvio

Lobster and crab from the live tank at this quality restaurant in Lagos, Portugal. The lobster is simply grilled with a little butter. The crab is dressed with chopped pickles, mayo and a little bit of beer ! Delicious.

Oyster Bar at Grand Central NYC

No trip to New York is complete without a visit to the Oyster Bar at Grand Central.  This Spring was no exception when we enjoyed a Medley of Seafood Platter with 5 different varieties (2 of each) of oyster plus jumbo shrimp, clams, NZ mussels and 1/2 lobster.  All in at $46 (£30) this represented pretty good value where the quality and freshness of the seafood was excellent.  A 2009 Domaine Fournier Sancerre (2009), with its good mineral finish, complemented the shellfish perfectly. The Oyster Bar offers wide a range of oysters (according to season) and the daily offerings can be viewed at their online menu .

On this lunchtime visit we were seated in the bar area at the back which, in my opinion, is not as good as the 'catacombs' in the main restaurant as it is a bit cramped with small tables.

Grand Central Terminal is an amazing station with a cathedral-like main concours and over 60 shops and restaurants.  A great place to visit even if you are not travelling on a train.

The native oyster (Ostrea edulis) and, particularly, the introduced Pacific oyster (Crassostrea gigas) are both grown commercially and are available widely. Oysters should be tightly closed when bought and have a fresh smell when opened. Often eaten raw, they are offered with a range of add-ons such as Tabasco sauce, chopped shallots in red wine vinegar and fresh lemon wedges.  For me, I always choose the lemon as it best enhances the delicate flavour and mineral finish of the oyster on the palate.   According to the Marine Conservation Society, farmed native or Pacific oysters offer a highly sustainable source of seafood.


A comprehensive and practical guide to oysters is offered online by Molly Watson.