The Leconfield, Petworth

The Leconfield, Petworth, West Sussex

Leconfield Restaurant

We have been going to the Leconfield restaurant in Petworth, West Sussex since it first opened several years ago.  There have been many developments since that first visit.  Changes in house manager, chefs and staff training have lead to a better and better dining experience. One significant factor has been guidance from Pascal Proyart, Head Chef at One-o-One, which many (myself included) rate as the best seafood restaurant in London.


So I was really looking forward to dinner there last night.  Initial booking by telephone was pleasant and friendly and this theme continued when we arrived and were greeted by the House Manager and our waitress for the evening.  To our surprise we were told that they now had a new Head Chef who had started just one week before.  Previously Head Chef at The Aubergine restaurant in Marlow, Tim O'Shea now joins the team at the Leconfield and first impressions are very good.

Smoked Haddock Vichyssoise

Tim has managed to create new menus already and there was a sumptuous range on offer on the a la carte menu.  Not all seafood of course, but notable items included Carlingford Rock Oysters, Squid and Octopus Pancha and Baked Dover Sole.  However, we opted for the set menu which offered 2 courses for £25 or 3 courses for £30.  

Smoked haddock, potato, confit hen's egg

To start I ordered the Vichyssoise with Poached Haddock and New Potato. Traditionally this is a thick soup made from leeks, onions, potato, cream and chicken stock but Tim put a wonderful seafood slant to it.  The haddock was braised in milk beforehand and the milky fish-stock was added to the leek and potato mix.  Pieces of the braised haddock and new potato, together with confit hens egg, were presented on the soup plate and the Vichyssoise was added at the table.  The result was a cool, refreshing, creamy (but not rich) soup with subtle fish flavours.

Salmon Canneloni

Main course was the Salmon Cannelloni with Braised Fennel and Vermouth Cream.  Half of the salmon was whipped with cream into a smooth mousse before adding to the remainder in the canneloni.  Delicately braised fennel, star anise and the bold vermouth cream completed this meal perfectly to provide a delicate balance of firm flavours. 

Rounding off with the British and French Cheese with Fig Chutney and Fennel Lavash we enjoyed a lovely evening at the Leconfield.  Full marks for food and service; can this place get any better ? 

Hooked on the Rocks, Swanpool, Cornwall

Hooked on the Rocks, Swanpool, Cornwall

Hooked on the Rocks is a quick walk away from the bustle of Falmouth overlooking Swanpool beach with views across Falmouth estuary and over to Pendennis Castle.  They focus on fresh fish and shellfish with an emphasis on sustainability and local produce.  There is a rustic feel in Hooked, which is reminiscent of the superb fish restaurants in southern Portugal. It is not difficult to abide by the displayed house rules of  'relax, relax, relax' ! 

We were there for a light lunch and enjoyed 1/2 dozen local fresh rock oysters accompanied by a crisp Sauvignon Blanc to start.  This was followed by an equally fresh and tasty dressed crab with fries and salad on the side.  

Good food and good service.

Sydney Fish Market

If you are in Australia and love seafood then the Sydney Fish Market is a 'must-visit' venue which provides a feast for your eyes and for your stomach ! Here is a pictorial record from my recent visit ….

Mud Crab

Oysters

Rock Lobster

King Crab

Octopus

Spanner Crab

Blue Swimmer Crab

Razor Clams

Langoustines

Snapper

King Salmon

Stone Crab

Seafood Mix

Eagle Ray Wings

Sushi Bar

Grilled Barramundi

Slurping Oysters

Sydney Fish Market

Seafood Platters

Garfish Restaurant - Manly Harbour, Sydney, Australia

Manly Beach

Described as Sydney's favourite beachside mecca, who could fail to love the swathes of golden sandy beach and the sparkling turquoise sea. We were lucky enough to visit this area over Christmas when visiting our daughter and her partner.  They have been living in Sydney for over 2 years now and are totally enraptured by this beautiful city and all that his has to offer. On a clear and sunny hot day in mid-December we were guided by Louise and Dean on an 8Km walk from Spit Bridge to Manly Harbour.  This well maintained coastal path follows the contours of North Harbour and offers magnificent views of the coastline, wooded areas and elegant properties. Manly Harbour is a tranquil wharf location with views towards Sydney Harbour but just a few minutes walk through the bustling promenade brings you to Manly Beach with its ocean surf.

For lunch we had booked to eat at Garfish, an award winning restaurant on the East Esplanade. This restaurant is all about fresh fish and first impressions were good with the light airy space, modern furnishings and friendly staff.  The restaurant was packed with a mix of tourists, locals and business people all there with one thing in mind - great seafood.  The menu was presented on a simple brown paper format (bit like a paper bag with writing on) and presented a problem - how could we choose when everything looked amazing?

King Prawn & Avocado

Snapper Pie

Sydney Rock Oysters

Our helpful waitress was well informed and offered plenty of sound advice to help with our choices.  The menu items were carefully presented to offer something for everyone.  For instance, oysters could be 'natural', 'crisp fried with ginger and mirin', 'as a shot with Bloody Mary, 'wood roasted with bacon and Worcestershire sauce' or a mixed plate of them all.  Always the oyster purist, I opted for the 'natural' which were delicious.  They were Sydney Rock Oysters from the central coast area of Lemon Tree Passage and they were creamy with a mild mineral finish.  Absolute heaven with  a crisp Sauvignon Blanc. Other shellfish on offer included Moreton Bay Bugs (a speciality of the restaurant), Live Rock Lobster and New Zealand Scampi.  Mains ranged from Crisp Fried Whole Baby Barramundi to King Prawn with Avocado.  I opted for the Snapper Pie.  Combining the Australian penchant for good pies and, in my opinion, one of the best white fish, there were large pieces of Snapper in a creamy Soubise  sauce (Bechamel with onion puree) topped with a light flaky pastry. Wholesome and delicious ! 

Following our meal we enjoyed what is generally known as the 'best commute in the world' by catching the ferry from Manly Harbour to Sydney Harbour, a picturesque journey of about 1/2 hour in the warm afternoon sunshine.  Now I am back in London I think I may be working in the wrong place !

Wines to go with Oysters

Having completed an extensive but by no means comprehensive trial of various wines which go well with oysters (a tough job I know) here are my top 5 recommendations for 2012.

Rock oysters and Chablis

Chablis 2011, Vocoret (Majestic £10.99)  
This wine is produced in one of the northernmost wine growing areas in the world where a combination of cool weather, limestone soils and Kimmeridgian clay produces one of the most iconic wine styles. Steely and mineral aromas with citrus fruits, limestone and slate provide a crisp, fresh and vibrant palate.  

Domaine de Villargeau 2011, Coteaux du Giennois(Majestic £8.99) 
This small appellation has only 91 hectares planted with Sauvignon vines and as it lives in the shadow of its neighbour, Pouilly Fume, its wines often slip under the radar and are hence excellent value.  Classic goosebery on the nose is intense and leads to a palate bursting with lime and nettle delivered with a clean crisp finish. 


Sancerre 2011, Calvet (Waitrose £9.99)
One of the most famous white wines in France, the Sancerre appellation is produced in 15 villages. An aromatic bouquet with white flowers and citrus fruits with flinty notes which perfectly complements the minerality of oysters.

2011 Picpoul de Pinet, Coteaux de Languedoc (M and S, £7.99) 
 Just a few miles from the Mediterranean coastline comes this crisp and zesty wine made from the Picpoul grape.  With a nose of lemon and lime, followed by green apple with a refreshingly dry and acidic finish.

2012 Sauvignon Blanc, Malborough Ragged Point (Majestic £5.99)
Typical Malborough characters of gooseberry, nettle and hints of tomato leaf on the nose.  Palate fruit is predominantly green apple and citrus with suggestions of melon, framed by intense acidity.

Oysters at Wright Brothers in Soho

In my enviable task of trying different wines with oysters I found myself in Wright Brothers restaurant near to Carnaby Street in London.  They specialise in oysters and offer a range of native and rock varieties according to season and availability.  We tried two different types of rock oyster.  The Cumbrae oyster, from Scotland, was slightly creamy with a medium mineral finish.  The Speciales de Claires from France were sweeter which, I was informed, results from them spending some of their life in fresh water. In both cases, as a bit of a purist, I only added freshly squeezed lemon juice, so the shallots in red wine vinegar remained untouched. The chosen wine was a 2011 'single vineyard' Hilltop Pinot Grigio from Hungary.  This crisp fresh wine worked very well with the oysters. 

Oysters with Picpoul de Pinet

A popular wine to accompany oysters, as recommended on Twitter by Waitrose, Majestic Wines and Languedoc Wines was Picpoul de Pinet.  I purchased a bottle of 2011 Domaine de Morin - Langaran from the Haslemere Wine Cellar for £9:50. Domaine Morin Langaran sits on a slightly raised flat of land looking out over oyster beds of Bouzigues in the Etang de Thau. The citrus zestiness of this well chilled wine developed fully about 10-15 minutes after opening. A dozen Colchester rock oysters from The Good Fish Shop (Haslemere) were shucked and freshly squeezed lemon juice added.  These No3 oysters had a superb mineral quality and the wine worked very well with them.  

Wines which go well with Oysters

Oysters are often compared with wines when described using terms such as 'mineral finish' etc. Classic choices include crisp white Sauvignons and in particular Sancerre, Muscadet and dry Champagnes ( if you have the budget).
Now the oyster season has started in the UK we will be comparing a range of wines ( all under a tenner) to complement native and rock oysters.

We would be pleased to hear your views too so let us know your favourites and we will share them here.

Great seafood at The Orange in Pimlico

Just eaten a lovely meal at The Orange in London. Delicious Carlingford rock oysters to start which were creamy with a good mineral finish complemented with a glass of Provençal rose wine. It's lemon wedges only for me with oysters as I feel that the shallot vinegar option swamps the flavour.
Main was Hake fillet on cauliflower purée with broad beans, spaghetti and pancetta. Hake was cooked to perfection (not overcooked and slightly translucent). Great cuisine from head chef Nigel and good service from Jono thanks.


Hake fish comes from the same order (Gadiformes) as cod and haddock. The only Hake species that is considered not to be over-fished is Cape hake, which is found in Zone 47-Namibia, according to the Worldwide Fund.

Oyster Bar at Grand Central NYC

No trip to New York is complete without a visit to the Oyster Bar at Grand Central.  This Spring was no exception when we enjoyed a Medley of Seafood Platter with 5 different varieties (2 of each) of oyster plus jumbo shrimp, clams, NZ mussels and 1/2 lobster.  All in at $46 (£30) this represented pretty good value where the quality and freshness of the seafood was excellent.  A 2009 Domaine Fournier Sancerre (2009), with its good mineral finish, complemented the shellfish perfectly. The Oyster Bar offers wide a range of oysters (according to season) and the daily offerings can be viewed at their online menu .

On this lunchtime visit we were seated in the bar area at the back which, in my opinion, is not as good as the 'catacombs' in the main restaurant as it is a bit cramped with small tables.

Grand Central Terminal is an amazing station with a cathedral-like main concours and over 60 shops and restaurants.  A great place to visit even if you are not travelling on a train.

The native oyster (Ostrea edulis) and, particularly, the introduced Pacific oyster (Crassostrea gigas) are both grown commercially and are available widely. Oysters should be tightly closed when bought and have a fresh smell when opened. Often eaten raw, they are offered with a range of add-ons such as Tabasco sauce, chopped shallots in red wine vinegar and fresh lemon wedges.  For me, I always choose the lemon as it best enhances the delicate flavour and mineral finish of the oyster on the palate.   According to the Marine Conservation Society, farmed native or Pacific oysters offer a highly sustainable source of seafood.


A comprehensive and practical guide to oysters is offered online by Molly Watson.

Oysters and the Food Standards Agency

Why do the Food Standards Agency publish a report which contains an obvious headline-grabbing statement that over 75% of UK oysters contain the Norovirus?  Hidden deeper in their report they state that they were unable to distinguish between infectious and non-infectious forms of the virus.  They also state that the risk is no greater now than it was before the study.  It doesn't take much common sense to realise that the media headlines will concentrate on the 75% bit, so why did the FSA act in such a manner ? They say it is their duty to alert the public of the risks which is fair enough but I say, think about the wording of your press release and understand how the media operate.  The UK shellfish industry has more than its fair share of problems and doesn't need a government agency adding to them unnecessarily.