Moxon's Fishmonger, Islington, London

Looking for fresh fish in London ? You probably can't do much better than visiting Moxon's in Islington High St. They have an amazing selection of fresh fish and shellfish, sourced by their own specialists at Billingsgate and around the coast. They even have their own fish smoker for Mackerel, Kippers etc.

Islington Manager 'Kev' has a wealth of knowledge with regard to the origins of their produce, how to prepare it and great tips on cooking. But then again he used to be a chef and he is studying marine biology in his spare time. I watched him expertly guide an Italian customer, who had a typical European rapport with seafood, through his purchase of Sea Witch and fresh Octopus.


The shop offers a wide range of produce which included Fines de Claires native oysters, Pacific Oysters from Carlingford, live crab and lobsters, shiny wild Seabass and meaty Turbot.

I bought some Loch Duart Salmon fillet and some beautifully fresh whole Squid which Kev double bagged with an ice pack for me to get it home to Surrey in tip top condition.

Independent fishmongers with Kev's skill, knowledge and enthusiasm are about as rare as Common Skate (ie nearly extinct) so get yourself down to Moxons and sample the freshness of the sea in the heart of London. 

Rivington Bar and Grill

Set in Rivington Street, near Old Street Tube in trendy Shoreditch is The Rivington Bar and Grill which is owned by Caprice Holdings (The Caprice,  The Ivy).  One of two in London (the other is in Greenwich) the Rivington Shoreditch offers traditional British fare beautifully crafted from fresh, often locally sourced, produce.  The surroundings are 'New York meets Berlin' with a range of Art Deco architectural styles and lots of street art.

 
We arrived for dinner at the start of the London weekend (Thursday evening), were greeted warmly at the door and encouraged to relax and have a drink at the bar, as our table "will not be going anywhere". I dislike being rushed in a restaurant so this was a positive start which continued as we studied the vast array of gins on offer, finally choosing after advice, and a few tastings, provided by the barman.  We opted for the Colonel Fox and Rock Rose with Fever Tree tonic. Colonel Fox London Gin is made to an 1859 recipe and is flavoured with juniper, coriander, angelica, cassia, liquorice and bitter orange peel. Rock Rose is prepared and hand distilled in the Scottish Highlands and is flavoured with Juniper, Rose Root, Sea Buckthorn and Rowan berries.

 We were seated in the restaurant area which is decorated with whitewashed walls, stripped wood floors and bespoke Deco lamps. The decor is simple with clean white tablecloths and warm lighting to create a relaxing environment which is contrasted by the incredible buzz of conversation and enjoyment.  Maybe not a place for a quiet romantic tete-a-tete but tables are far enough apart for a feeling of your own space.  Art figures large at The Rivington, as it does in the whole area, and we were close to Tracy Emin's neon 'Life Without You - Never '.

Tempura battered squid

 The menu is not complicated and there are several seafood choices on offer including, fresh oysters, tempura squid, battered haddock, scallop ceviche, monkfish masala, smoked eel and cod with mussels.

I opted to start with the Tempura battered Cornish Squid with Chilli Jam.  Superb light batter, the pure white squid was tender and flavoursome and enhanced by the tangy jam. This is not fine dining but high quality food prepared from fresh produce and expertly presented. Most of all its is delicious.

Scallops, haggis, tatties,  neeps

For main it was Seared Cornish Scallops, Haggis, Bacon, Tatties and Neeps.  This arrived as five individual scallop shells each of which contained the entire combination and delicious it was too.  A nice change from the traditional scallop perched on top of black pudding.  

 Rounded off with a bottle of Picpoul de Pinet this was a very pleasant evening and I look forward to another visit.

The Leconfield, Petworth

The Leconfield, Petworth, West Sussex

Leconfield Restaurant

We have been going to the Leconfield restaurant in Petworth, West Sussex since it first opened several years ago.  There have been many developments since that first visit.  Changes in house manager, chefs and staff training have lead to a better and better dining experience. One significant factor has been guidance from Pascal Proyart, Head Chef at One-o-One, which many (myself included) rate as the best seafood restaurant in London.


So I was really looking forward to dinner there last night.  Initial booking by telephone was pleasant and friendly and this theme continued when we arrived and were greeted by the House Manager and our waitress for the evening.  To our surprise we were told that they now had a new Head Chef who had started just one week before.  Previously Head Chef at The Aubergine restaurant in Marlow, Tim O'Shea now joins the team at the Leconfield and first impressions are very good.

Smoked Haddock Vichyssoise

Tim has managed to create new menus already and there was a sumptuous range on offer on the a la carte menu.  Not all seafood of course, but notable items included Carlingford Rock Oysters, Squid and Octopus Pancha and Baked Dover Sole.  However, we opted for the set menu which offered 2 courses for £25 or 3 courses for £30.  

Smoked haddock, potato, confit hen's egg

To start I ordered the Vichyssoise with Poached Haddock and New Potato. Traditionally this is a thick soup made from leeks, onions, potato, cream and chicken stock but Tim put a wonderful seafood slant to it.  The haddock was braised in milk beforehand and the milky fish-stock was added to the leek and potato mix.  Pieces of the braised haddock and new potato, together with confit hens egg, were presented on the soup plate and the Vichyssoise was added at the table.  The result was a cool, refreshing, creamy (but not rich) soup with subtle fish flavours.

Salmon Canneloni

Main course was the Salmon Cannelloni with Braised Fennel and Vermouth Cream.  Half of the salmon was whipped with cream into a smooth mousse before adding to the remainder in the canneloni.  Delicately braised fennel, star anise and the bold vermouth cream completed this meal perfectly to provide a delicate balance of firm flavours. 

Rounding off with the British and French Cheese with Fig Chutney and Fennel Lavash we enjoyed a lovely evening at the Leconfield.  Full marks for food and service; can this place get any better ? 

Fish Curry Takeaway from Meghdoots

My favourite Indian restaurant is Meghdoots in the picturesque West Sussex town of Petworth.  This restaurant is no 'run of the mill' curry house.  Proprietors, Sanjay and Milli offer authentic cuisine, derived from regions of India, all prepared fresh to order. First impressions are good with contemporary decor and a friendly welcome.  This continues with helpful service from the staff and plenty of advice on the best combination of dishes.  One great advantage of fresh preparation is that you can choose how 'hot' you would like your curry.  

We have enjoyed many a superb meal at Meghdoots but on this occasion we opted for the takeaway service.  Sanjay recommended the 'Chef Special' fish curry which comprised Tilapia, Squid and Prawns in a mild sauce with carefully blended spices.  To accompany we had Dal Palak, an unusual blend of spinach and yellow lentils, saffron flavoured Pulao Rice and a Roti bread.  A superb combo which was a great way to wind up the week.

Seafood at the Almyra Hotel in Cyprus

Infinity pool at AlmyraSpa

In pursuit of some winter sun at the end of our UK winter we ended up in Cyprus at the Almyra Hotel in Paphos.  This was our first visit to Cyprus but it ticked all the boxes having temperatures around 20C and less than 5 hours flying with Easyjet and a small time difference (+2 hours).  The Almyra Hotel offered good facilities including a well appointed spa, gymnasium, pools and sporting facilities all situated next to the Mediterranean Sea.  The cuisine on offer was promising with several restaurants available at this hotel and the neighbouring sister Hotel Annabelle.

Fishing Boats in Pafos

Cyprus is situated in the eastern end of the Mediterranean where the water is not particularly rich in nutrients and so the fish stocks are not highly abundant.  However local fishing boats, like those based in Paphos, do bring a regular supply of local produce including Picarel (a type of whitebait), Dorado, Mullet, Cuttlefish, Squid, Tuna and Swordfish.  Farmed fish in Cyprus include Gilthead Bream and Seabass. The inshore fishing is carried out from small wooden boats using long lines or nets.

Char-grilled Fresh
Calamari

Local fresh squid (Calamari) is abundant and makes for a tasty dish.  This whole squid was scored and grilled over barbecue coals at the poolside restaurant, Notios. Beautifully prepared with local olive oil and lemon juice it was tender and juicy.  It is important to 'score' the flesh of a squid before cooking as it helps to tenderise the squid-meat during cooking.  Other notable dishes at Notios included Seared Salmon and Seafood and SeaweedSalad.

Sushi by the Sea

Seafood & Seaweed Salad

The Almyra also specialises in Japanese cuisine and offer a range of dishes to order from the menu or even especially prepared after discussions with the chef.  These plates of Sushi and Sashimi were expertly crafted from the freshest ingredients.  The dishes included Salmon and Tuna Maki rolls, Yellowfin Tuna Sashimi, Seabass and Squid Nigiri.  Accompanied by a highly palatable Sauvignon Blanc from the Tsiakkas Winery, this made for an very pleasant lunch.

Jumbo Prawn with Rice

A lunchtime alternative was the Ouzeri restaurant which has a rustic appeal and is situated at the edge of the sea. Fresh fish was always available. One of the most popular dishes was the charcoal grilled Jumbo Prawns with rice - absolutely delicious ! Again a good choice of cocktails and wines (local and international) were on offer but we opted for the Tsiakkas Merlot which again was extremely good.

Paella

Mosaics, Almyra’s main restaurant, caters for all tastes with modern Mediterranean and International buffets.  Much to our (pleasant) surprise the evening meal in this restaurant was complimentary and the quality of the food and wine was very good indeed. From a simple salad to swordfish kebabs, a wide range of wines and good service made this a regular favourite.  The Almyra'a adjacent 'sister' hotel, The Annabelle, offered the same deal also with themed nights which included 'Mediterranean', Italian and Oriental cuisine. The image shows Chef Gary, at the Annabelle, preparing a Paella to order, overseen by Executive Chef, Alexandre Geffroy.

Flame seared Sashimi Salmon

Miso glazed Black Cod

 There were fine dining options at the Almyra which more than met the mark.  'Flavours' is an elegant restaurant situated around the fireplace at the far end of the foyer bar.  Offering a combination of Japanese and Mediterranean cuisine the menu was varied and interesting.  The Flame-seared Sashimi Salmon with Italian white truffle oil and Gremolata was delicate and the Miso Glazed Black Cod with pickled vegetables and Yuzu Miso dressing (made with a Japanese citrus fruit) was flavoursome. Flavours also offered an impressive selection of international fine wines to complement the excellent food.

Pan fried Sea Bream

Sauteed Prawn

More formal fine dining was provided at Amorosa in the Annabelle Hotel next door. It is a sophisticated restaurant which specialises in contemporary French cuisine. I opted for the four course set menu which at €28 was a bargain but was even more amazed when I learned that our meal plan reduced this to a ridiculous €15.  For food of this quality I would expect to pay four or five times that amount.  My choices included Sauteed Prawn with Green Beans, Potatoes, Black Olives and Lemon Butter Sauce followed by Cauliflower Soup with Olive Tapenade Crostini. For main course it was Pan Fried Sea Bream with Spinach Mash, Ratatouille and Champagne Sauce. Then to finish, Dark Chocolate and Orange Crepes with Orange Zest Confit and Pear Sorbet.  All prepared to perfection with fresh ingredients and served expertly with fine wines on offer.

In summary, I would highly recommend the quality of the seafood at these 2 Thanos hotels. I am told that a third hotel in the group, Anassa, is also good so here's to my next visit ! 

Portofino - A New Restaurant in Lagos, Portugal

Portofino is a stylish restaurant which opened in November 2013 at the upper level of the Marina de Lagos and is attracting a lot of positive attention. Established and operated by Paul and Gorrete it is easy to see why. They are experienced restaurateurs who have run several successful eateries in the UK and they have applied their skills here too. The decor and lighting is stylish and relaxing with a pleasant view of the marina from this elevated location. 

Portofino was recommended by my good friend Carlos Ramos who is the proprietor of O Cantinho Algarvio, a favourite restaurant of mine. Carlos really knows about food so I guessed we were in for a treat on his recommendation. I was right. We were warmly welcomed and shown to our table next to the window. Mood lighting and contemporary furniture gave the space an almost London feel which is quite rare in Lagos.

I opted for the Fennel Crusted Calamari on a bed of Rocket to start. Tender squid rings with a nice dry batter and a beautiful aniseed finish from the Fennel. Main course was pan-fried Monkfish with Onions, Bacon, White Wine and Lemon Cream Sauce on Mashed Potato. Beautifully  presented, this dish had great flavour and texture. 




I should say at this point that Portofino is not a seafood restaurant.  It is essentially Italian  cuisine expertly crafted from high quality ingredients. We tried the meatballs with spaghetti which was probably the best I have ever tasted outside Italy. There is also a good selection of Italian classic wines and some good Portuguese ones too. We opted for the 1/2 litre carafes each of house red and white both of which were outstanding and great value at €8:95 each.

Three of us ate starters and mains with two half litre carafes for a total of €70, which in my opinion was a bargain. Go there ! 

Steamed Seabass at Cau Guildford

Argentinian Beef

CAU Restaurants has earned itself a high reputation for steaks being themed on the pampas grass fed Argentinian Beef.  In fact, director Charlie McLean and creative director, Patsy Godik have both worked with, amongst others, Gaucho restaurants. 




However, not so much has been written about the fish options at CAU so here are my experiences from a visit to the Guildford restaurant yesterday.  We were celebrating Mothers Day with some of our (not so young) kids in a party of 5 people.  Our booking (originally for 6) was dealt with very efficiently over the 'phone and when we arrived one person short, the staff were not put out in any way.  

Steamed Seabass

We were served at our table on the mezzanine by Katie who was extremely helpful and friendly.  As one of our party cannot eat oil there was a bit of discussion with the chef via Katie on what we could have.  This was resolved perfectly when Alessi, the Head Chef, came to our table and offered to fillet a fresh Seabass and steam it without oil. A perfect solution which is not always possible in larger chain restaurants where most items are prepared to formula.  The 'normal' Seabass option was baked 'en papillotte' with lemon thyme, cherry tomatoes, fresh orange and curry leaves and was delicious too. 

Seabass 'en papillotte'

Other seafood items which we enjoyed included Salt and Pepper Squid which were dusted in flour and topped with sautéed garlic and chili and accompanied with Chipotle Mayo.  We also shared the Steamed Mussels in a creamy Coconut and Coriander sauce. Extra bread was required to mop up the delicious juices.

Some of us had meat dishes which were excellent but the seafood options are far from second best and combined with the good service and buzzy atmosphere resulted in a really pleasant outing. 

Seafood Kebabs

Simple to prepare yet good to look at and great to eat are these seafood kebabs.
Marinade whole tiger prawns, monkfish pieces and squid strips in olive oil, crushed garlic, black pepper and lemon juice for about one hour. Arrange the seafood on skewers with pieces of red pepper and red onion. Finish off with a lemon wedge. Grill or barbecue for about 10 mins each side and serve with potatoes and salad. Easy.