Crayfish at Stockholm, East Sheen, London

 Crayfish are the smaller, freshwater cousins of the lobster and are best eaten during the season between Spring and Autumn. I was fortunate to enjoy some recently at the Crayfish Festival held at the Stockholm restaurant in Sheen Lane, East Sheen, London SW14. 

Stockholm is a friendly, family run restaurant which operates as a deli/cafe during the day and a restaurant at night. Restaurant Manager, Majvor provides a warm welcome while husband Goran is Head Chef running the kitchen. Shelves laden with Scandinavian culinary delights adorn the walls of the restaurant which has a homely feel       with plenty of Swedish style. 

Majvor explained to me that they buy live crayfish direct from a supplier in the Cotswolds who export much of their produce to Sweden. They source Dill directly from Sweden where they grow the herb with a full flower head to provide better flavour. The resulting dish was amazing with the sweetness of the Crayfish enhanced by the aromatic flavour of the Dill. I look forward to returning to Stockholm to try some of their other Swedish fish delights including 'Home Cured Salmon with Creamed Dill Potato' and 'Herring Platter'.

Fresh Pike at Lake Garda, Italy

In the UK, the freshwater Pike is generally not considered to be a fish worth cooking and eating. Although popular centuries ago there is a perception here that the fish either has too many bones or that it will taste 'muddy'. In my opinion neither of these statements is true.  The northern pike (Esox lucius) is a species of carnivorous fish of the genus Esox (the pikes). They are typical of brackish and freshwaters of the northern hemisphere (i.e. holarctic in distribution).

Although generally known as a "sporting" quarry, some anglers release pike they have caught because the flesh is considered bony, especially due to the substantial (epipleural) "Y-bones". However, larger fish are more easily filleted, and pike have a long and distinguished history in cuisine and are popular fare in Europe. Historical references to cooking pike go as far back as the Romans.


I recently enjoyed 'Pike in the Old Recipe of the Lake' at  beautiful quayside restaurant on the banks of Lake Garda in Italy.  The restaurant, which is also a small hotel with amazing views, is called Lepanto and it is situated in the pretty town of Salo at the southern end of the lake. The fish was poached and flaked off the bone before serving with Capers and Polenta.  It had a delicious delicate flavour and a firm texture (similar to Hake).

Aqua Shard, London

The Shard, London

The Shard, designed by award winning architect, Renzo Piano, spans 72 floors and is the tallest building in Western Europe rising 310m (1016 ft) above the London skyline.

The two latest culinary offerings at the iconic Shard building in London are from the Hong Kong based Aqua restaurant group.  Aqua Shard reviewed here offers contemporary British cuisine from the 31st floor whereas Aqua Hutong (one floor up) is top quality Chinese.  

The location is undeniably stunning with incredible 360 degree views of London further enhanced by the use of copious glass and mirrors to provide a spacious and light interior with incredible views from almost every angle.  Attention to detail is obvious from table positioning to the use of glass walled 'private' dining areas to reduce noise but maximise light. Even the urinals in the Gents have been strategically placed to maximise the view !

Aqua Restaurant Group is the brainchild of ex-Credit Suisse Finance Lawyer, David Yeo and his silent partner, Richard Ward.  They now boast 21 restaurants spread across London, Hong Kong and Beijing, each featuring elegant decor and exciting venues in keeping with David's vision.  They have plans to open more as they move onwards and upwards from their humble beginnings in Hollywood Road, Hong Kong in 2000.  

Iconic settings can often lead to a disappointing eating experience whereby the venue draws the customers so the food is secondary.  However, in the case of Aqua Shard I can vouch that, in my experience, this is not the case.  Chef Anthony Garlando, protege of Michelin 3-star chef Pierre Gagnare, does not disappoint in terms of menu selection, presentation and flavour. We opted, of course, for seafood and I can honestly say that it was some of the best I have ever tasted so the elegant surroundings and stunning views were a real bonus.

Loch Duart Salmon

Grilled Octopus & Mackerel

For starters we had Confit of Loch Duart Salmon with Dorset Crab, Avocado, Pepper Puree, Courgette and Oscietra Caviar. Beautifully crafted it was a delight on the eye and on the palate.  The delicate flavour of this superb salmon combined perfectly with a generous quenelle of the crabmeat and the salty spark of the caviar.  Our other starter was Grilled Octopus and Scottish Mackerel with Tomato Sorbet, Pickled Shallots, Aubergine Dressing and Crispy Potato.  The flavours were more intense in this starter but the combination of the tomato sorbet with the lightly cooked mackerel was perfect and the texture of the grilled Octopus added yet another dimension to this flavourful dish.  The addition of fresh herbs such as Sorrel was another sign of Chef Garlando's skill.

Dover Sole

Roasted Halibut

Our mains were Roasted Halibut and Grilled Dover Sole. The halibut was served on a bed of cockles with pumpkin, Swiss chard and a grilled langoustine.  The Dover Sole was served on the bone but was perfectly skinned and trimmed.  It came with an interesting combination of cubes of Iberico ham, cuttlefish, broad beans and a light foamy sauce of Luscombe Devon Cider. The combination of sweet and salty worked well with the firm meaty texture of the sole.  




All-in-all Aqua Shard was a memorable experience which we would like to repeat soon.  Prices are what you would expect for an up-market restaurant but still represent value for money when you consider the quality.  The view is a real bonus for free !

Kaspar's Seafood Bar at The Savoy

Looking for a nice lunch in London last week I was intrigued to try Kaspar's, the new seafood restaurant at the Savoy Hotel.  I might have been put off initially by the scathing reviews published by Marina O'Loughlin (Guardian, 01/06/13) and Tracey Macleod (Independent 25/5/13).  However, I have learnt all to well over the years that reviews, good and bad, are written for a variety of reasons many of which have little to do with food. When restaurants first open it is not unusual for the service to suffer which is point number one for reviewers to get their teeth into.  Decor and ambience which is often highlighted can just be a question of personal taste and mood.  Marina and Tracey did not disappoint on either of these, proffering their opinions of the 'blingy' decor and the failure of the staff to deliver.  

I beg to disagree:  the restaurant is a modern glamourous space which manages to combine a traditional seafood bar, complete with green marble worktops and ice displays, with the art deco styling of the original Riverside Grill. Add to this a very contemporary 'shine' and you have Kaspar's.  No dress code and no stuffiness yet it is still a very smart and exciting space with plenty of buzz and atmosphere from enthusiastic diners and the staff preparing dishes behind the bar.  We were given a warm welcome on arrival and appreciated the attentive service throughout the meal.

Yellowfin Tuna Tartare

We opted for a couple of starters with a selection of Rock Oysters (from Jersey and West Mersea) and Yellowfin Tuna Tartare.  Our friendly waiter was helpful and knowledgeable explaining the subtle differences between the oysters whereby the Jersey's were sweeter and the Mersea's had more of a mineral finish.  The tuna was superbly fresh and served with a mild wasabi cream and crisp Melba Toast.  

Smoked Eel and Cured Fish

For main course my wife chose the Isle of Skye 1/2 lobster, grilled, with the garlic butter on the side, which at £19 is pretty reasonable. Chef James Pare explained that all the lobsters are delivered live each morning to ensure maximum freshness and quality.  It did not disappoint with its juicy texture and delicate flavour typical of good European lobster.  I have to question here Marina O'Loughlin's choice of the Lobster Club Sandwich for her review - probably not the best way to enjoy seafood.  I had a selection of smoked and cured fish which included Beetroot Cured Halibut, Citrus Cured Seabass, Smoked Eel and Star Anise Cured Salmon.  All were delicious, moist and flavourful making a nice 'raw' fish alternative to the seemingly ubiquitous sashimi and sushi in London nowadays.



All accompanied with a carafe of crisp Sauvignon Blanc followed by coffee and complimentary chocolate 'lollipops' it was a delicious lunch which was leisurely and special.  We will return.

Spaghetti with Clams at Zavial Beach, Portugal

Praia do Zavial is one of my favourite places in the world.  It is a stunning beach on the south west corner of the Algarve about 20 minutes drive west of Lagos.  Golden sand and crystal clear water combine to give a great place to relax in the summer sun or play in the surf. Although the surf is moderated by the southerly aspect there is a good point break to the western end of the beach which provides great sport for the serious surfer in the winter months.  Zavial is popular with bodyboarders of a high standard as demonstrated by Ivo and Neuza who work at the Zavial Beach Restaurant.




This restaurant is located at the western end of the beach where there is ample parking.  The view is stunning and it is a great place to have a drink/snack and to take in the view and the cool sounds of the chill-out music.  Lunchtime and evening meals focus of fresh produce carefully prepared and beautifully presented. 

 

Local fresh fish and shellfish are a speciality as displayed on the menu board.  

I opted for one of my favourites, Spaghetti with Clams, which is a Portuguese version of the Italian classic, Spaghetti Vongole.  Large juicy clams are cooked with garlic and herbs and then combined with butter and oil in the white spaghetti. Simply delicious !









If you are visiting the Algarve this year be sure to check out Praia do Zavial and all that it offers.  

Dogfish Recipes

Freshly caught dogfish

Skinned dogfish at market

Dogfish is one of those species often referred to as worthless by fisherman, so when my daughter caught one recently I tweeted (@seafoodreview) for recipes.  Fish at 85 Cardiff (@fishat85) offered the fish & chip 'classic' - deep fried in batter and also suggested fish curry. Of course you must skin and then fillet the fish first which is a great way to blunt your knives as dogfish skin is so tough having hundreds of backwards pointing dermodenticles (skin teeth). It is a firm fish which holds together well in curries, stews or bouillabaisse. In my opinion it must be very fresh as the flesh degrades quickly and the flavour becomes too strong. 

Seafood at Cin Cin, Barbados

Cocktail at Cin Cin Barbados

Cin Cin is a very stylish contemporary restaurant based in Prospect on the West Coast of Barbados in St. James district.  We turned up, without a reservation (although I recommend that you book, especially for dinner), at around 2pm and were warmly greeted in the car park by a guy who promptly took our keys to park the car and welcomed us into the foyer.  First impressions were the modern bar, white leather furniture and the stunning view of the ocean through the very large areas of glass.  It was lunchtime and not too busy so we were lucky enough to get a table on the terrace which is down at the water's edge.  Lunchtime dress code is relaxed so we were fine in our shorts and T-shirts.

  After a refreshing cocktail we had the Seared Tuna Nicoise Salad which was a modern take on this classic dish.  All the traditional components were there but they were presented imaginatively with a poached Quail's egg, a bundle of French Beans, baby new potatoes in mayonnaise and perfectly seared fresh Yellowfin Tuna. 


Main course was Kingfish (see note below) with a caper sauce on smooth leek and potato puree and seasonal vegetables. Our food was cooked to perfection and served beautifully so for me, Cin Cin is a 'must-visit' restaurant for anyone in Barbados.

(Kingfish or Wahoo (Acanthocybium solandri) is found worldwide in tropical and subtropical seas and the species as a whole is not considered overfished.  It is much prized by sports fishermen).

Steamed Seabass at Cau Guildford

Argentinian Beef

CAU Restaurants has earned itself a high reputation for steaks being themed on the pampas grass fed Argentinian Beef.  In fact, director Charlie McLean and creative director, Patsy Godik have both worked with, amongst others, Gaucho restaurants. 




However, not so much has been written about the fish options at CAU so here are my experiences from a visit to the Guildford restaurant yesterday.  We were celebrating Mothers Day with some of our (not so young) kids in a party of 5 people.  Our booking (originally for 6) was dealt with very efficiently over the 'phone and when we arrived one person short, the staff were not put out in any way.  

Steamed Seabass

We were served at our table on the mezzanine by Katie who was extremely helpful and friendly.  As one of our party cannot eat oil there was a bit of discussion with the chef via Katie on what we could have.  This was resolved perfectly when Alessi, the Head Chef, came to our table and offered to fillet a fresh Seabass and steam it without oil. A perfect solution which is not always possible in larger chain restaurants where most items are prepared to formula.  The 'normal' Seabass option was baked 'en papillotte' with lemon thyme, cherry tomatoes, fresh orange and curry leaves and was delicious too. 

Seabass 'en papillotte'

Other seafood items which we enjoyed included Salt and Pepper Squid which were dusted in flour and topped with sautéed garlic and chili and accompanied with Chipotle Mayo.  We also shared the Steamed Mussels in a creamy Coconut and Coriander sauce. Extra bread was required to mop up the delicious juices.

Some of us had meat dishes which were excellent but the seafood options are far from second best and combined with the good service and buzzy atmosphere resulted in a really pleasant outing. 

Wilks Restaurant, Bristol

With regard to restaurants and cuisine, the gap between London and the rest of the nation has been highlighted by many critics not least A. A. Gill in the Sunday Times Magazine this week.  There is some truth in it, particularly in terms of choice and availability (so many provincial restaurants close really early) but if you put your mind to it and carry out some internet research there are some real gems out there to enjoy. Just such a place is the recently opened Wilks Restaurant in Bristol.

We were spending a short weekend (i.e. Saturday night) in Bristol so I scanned the internet for restaurants which had some element of seafood in the menu. Wilks was highly rated so I reserved a table for our party of 6.  Most reviewers refer to the fact that Wilks has replaced Culinaria, a previously popular and successful restaurant, but I had no experience of that so I won't be making any comparisons here.

Wilks is located in Chandos Street, which is a quiet backwater in the Redland district.  In fact there is an unusual mix of residential properties, takeaways and budget restaurants in the area so Wilks is somewhat unique here.  No grand entrance or glitz, the restaurant is a comfortable, stylish space with its simple furniture, subtle lighting and welcoming staff.  Service throughout the meal was non-intrusive, efficient and the staff were very well informed about all of the dishes.  I do not crave grandeur but I do like to see quality in the table layout particularly wine glasses, cutlery and linen table napkins.  Wilks had all of that spot-on. 

Between the 6 of us we had a range of courses including pigeon breast, venison and mushroom veloute with black truffle oil (delicious) but I will restrict my descriptions here to some of the exquisite seafood.

Pan fried John Dory

The Pan Fried Fillets of John Dory were cooked perfectly and accompanied with mussels in carrot jus, lemongrass and ginger.  The delicate flavour of the fish was perfectly blended with the aromatics to give a nicely balanced dish. I love to see John Dory on the menu as, along with Turbot and Sole, it is one of my favourites.  It has firm flesh and can be pan-fried, grilled or baked but culinary success lies in not overcooking it.  I wasn't disappointed, the fillets were almost translucent, moist and delicious. The John Dory or St Peters Fish (Zeus faber) is essentially a coastal species which is unregulated so there is no specific information with regard to sustainability.  The general recommendation is to avoid eating immature fish (less than 35cm) during their breeding season (June to August).

Maple cured Salmon Fillet

The Maple Cured Salmon Fillet (left), served with pickled carrots, beetroots and sorrel, was a beautifully crafted starter. Adorned with 'ribbons' of fresh radish it was a delight on the eye and sensational on the tongue.

Sesame crust Cod Fillet

Other dishes we enjoyed that night included...Fillet of Wild Cod (with sesame crust, young leeks, chanterelles, ham jus) and Crab Bisque (with hand rolled crab ravioli).





Overall, Wilks is a must-visit restaurant which offers high quality cuisine, without pretence in a relaxed friendly environment.  Next time I am in Bristol it will be top of my list as I want to try the very reasonably priced tasting menu (5 courses for £40) which includes Fillet of Wild Turbot and Pan-seared Cornish Scallops.  My mouth is watering already.

Native Oysters and Champagne

Native Oysters at Searcys

If there is an 'r' in the month then it's time to be eating Native Oysters (Ostrea edulis) in the U.K.  They can be distinguished from the ubiquitous Pacific or Rock Oyster by virtue of their smoother, rounder shell although the best way to tell the difference is in the taste.  'Natives' have more flavour, in particular a pronounced mineral finish and to the oyster fan they are simply delicious.  When I eat Pacific Oysters I generally only squeeze on lemon juice and leave the shallot vinegar, Tabasco etc. firmly on the table. This is because I do not want to 'drown' the delicate creaminess.  However, the more pronounced flavour of the Native lends itself better to addition of small amounts of shallot vinegar or Tabasco.  Having said that, one squeeze of lemon does give an amazing oyster experience.

We were lucky enough to enjoy Native Oysters from Loch Ryan (Scotland) at the Grand Brasserie operated by Searcy's Champagne Bar at St. Pancras in London. This is Scotland’s only wild fishery, having remained in the possession of the Wallace family since 1701 when the oyster beds were given to them by King William III. The fishery is sustainably and productively managed, providing 95% of Scotland’s native oysters.  The expected harvest is about 300,000 oysters per season.  They harvest the largest 5% of the stock, with the rest being re-laid on the loch bed.  This simple and sustainable method is greatly increasing the stock and providing a stable future for the native oysters.

The perfect wine to accompany our oysters was a bottle of Besserat Brut Champagne. This bold and fresh wine had a fine mousse and developed complexity in the mouth with hints of apricot and tropical notes.  A perfect Champagne to enjoy with food. 

Cooking Game at River Cottage

OK I know this is a review site for seafood, so why am I writing about game ?  Well, a number of reasons but the key ones are ......  (a) seafood and game are often sold together in fishmongers (b) like fish game is generally a healthy food being very low in fat (c) game represents (in the main) wild animals, which is the case for a lot of fish which we eat.

But the main reason is that I have just attended a one day course on the preparation and cooking of game at River Cottage which was so informative and enjoyable that I want to share it with you.

I arrived at River Cottage HQ at 09:30 on a windy Wednesday morning and met up with my 6 fellow students for the day.  They included a gamekeeper, a beater and a trainee chef along with home cooks who wanted to widen their skills and knowledge.  

Following the tractor-drawn trailer ride down the hill we we ushered into a posh marquee which housed both a restaurant area and a teaching kitchen with workstations for about 20 students.  Being a small group of seven we had plenty of space and time for one-to-one instruction.  Although the marquee creaked occasionally in the wind it was warm and comfortable and it was sited to fully appreciate the magnificent views down the valley.

First item on the menu was wild rabbit - a much undervalued food item in the UK but one which is appreciated in other countries.  Rabbit is lean and (pardon the cliche) tastes a bit like chicken with flavour.  Wild rabbits are herbivorous grazers so you couldn't have a better option than a truly free-range wild one.  We learned how to skin the animal and then to prepare the best cuts of meat namely the saddle (or loin) and the thighs. The saddle was cured by coating in salt/sugar, washed, dried and then lightly smoked using oak wood chips.  This smoked loin was vacuum packed for us to take home and use at a later date.  The rabbit thighs were boned, combined with pigeon breast, pheasant, bacon pieces, rabbit liver and heart, Thyme, Rosemary, salt, pepper and onion in a red wine reduction.  This mixture was minced and pressed into glass jars for steaming to produce a delicious game pate. 

Pigeon Breasts with Beetroot

Pigeon breasts were pan fried with onion and garlic and beetroot (previously boiled).  This was served, rare, with Salsa Verde.  It totally reversed by view of pigeon as it was juicy and succulent with a subtle flavour.

Pheasant Tortilla

We prepared Pheasant from scratch without filling the room with feathers and produced a dish probably not normally associated with game i.e. Pheasant Tortillas.  We made the tortillas using a flour and water/oil mixture rolled out thinly and fried in a dry frying pan.  The Pheasant breast and thigh (boned) were cut into strips, tossed in oil with onions, garlic and spices and pan fried.  The meal was served with fresh green salad, creme fraiche and grated cheese - simple, quick and extremely tasty.

This is just a sample of some of the activities which we undertook on the day.  It was very relaxed and its success undoubtedly results from the expert support provided by our instructor, Tim Maddams, who instilled confidence in each of us with his friendly encouragement.

Roast Monkfish & Prawns with Spelt, Quinoa and Rice

Simple to prepare, tasty and healthy this is a great dish to prepare for supper with friends.  Use skinned tail fillets of Monkfish, season with a little sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and leave in a cool place for about 1/2 hour.  Drizzle the fillets with Olive Oil and bake in a closed casserole in a hot oven for about 15 minutes. I used a ready mix pack of Spelt, Quinoa, Red Rice and Wild Rice from the LOVElife range at Waitrose which only requires microwaving for 1 minute.  Serve the fish on top of the Spelt, with a few steamed Prawns, drizzle with a little Olive Oil and serve with Curly Kale on the side.  Delicious.

Grand Brasserie at St Pancras

The St. Pancras Grand Brasserie is part of the Searcy's Champagne Bars group and offers a range of high quality shellfish and seafood with champagnes and wines to match.  I have eaten here before and enjoyed their lunchtime special of oysters and champagne for a birthday celebration.  So, when the opportunity arose last night for another celebration I was more than happy to suggest we visit again.

The restaurant decor is very welcoming and relaxing on a cold winter night at St Pancras.  The station itself always creates a romantic image with its combination of history and modernity in the building and shops/restaurants. The brasserie adds even more with its art deco styling, dark wood furnishings embellished with plenty of brass.

The service was good from the first point of contact when I telephoned to book and explain the special dietary requirements of one of my guests (who cannot eat oil or butter). Friendly and helpful best describes the response.

 So, how about the food ?  Most of us went for the special menu which offered 2 courses for £15 or 3 courses for £19. With three of each starters, mains and puddings to choose from the choice was varied and interesting. I went for the cauliflower and nutmeg soup which was delicious, followed by the fresh Haddock with caper and sage butter.  The menu almost didn't do it justice as it also came with smooth creamed potatoes and curly kale (my favourite vegetable of the moment) which had been steamed perfectly.  The folded fillet of Haddock was succulent and glistening (a good sign that it's not overcooked), drizzled with the caper butter and topped with crispy Sage leaves (how did the chef do that ?).
Our 'non-oil diner' was treated to  steamed smoked haddock with crushed new potatoes and curly kale. None of us had room for a pudding.  The food was expertly prepared and presented and this menu represents amazing value for money - could be the best value in London.  We topped it off with a bottle of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and with the service charge it worked out about £25 per person.