The Wheelhouse, Falmouth, Cornwall

If you love unadulterated, fresh-off-the-rocks shellfish, get yourself straight down to the Wheelhouse and it will not disappoint. Make sure you ring up to book first as this is a 'must-visit' destination in Cornwall and they only open Wednesday to Saturday.  Despite having no website, no twitter and no email they can be booked up for months ahead; especially in the Summer.  It's fame all comes down to word-of-mouth recommendations, which have to be the most reliable sources of real-life opinions when you think about it.

So, what is all the fuss about?  First and foremost it's the quality of the shellfish which is mainly locally sourced (apart from the prawns), extremely fresh and beautifully prepared.  Secondly it is the welcome. This is a restaurant with a surreal, almost storybook-style, tea party atmosphere run by enthusiasts and enjoyed by seafood lovers.  None of your pastel greys and minimalist lines here; the eclectic decor features floral satin wallpaper, illuminated seashells, golden painted cherubs clutching candles and shelves adorned with hats from all walks of life.



We were a large party of 13 hungry tummies and opted for a set menu as recommended by the owner Tina Hopton.  She welcomed us to a table in the centre of the small 'living room' and recommended their modestly priced but very drinkable white wine to accompany our meal.  It took little encouragement for us to try on the various hats for a group photo as the homely, relaxed vibe encouraged our fun loving fan-fare to get stuck in. Having said that there are quieter corners of the room for those wanting an intimate setting to sit and savour the shellfish delights.

Sailors Mussels

Thai Prawns

Our set menu was a bit of a mystery, although exciting, as we had no idea what was to come.  First to arrive were copper bowls brimming with plump and juicy mussels under a blanket of steam, like delicious smelling mist over a moonlit millpond. Some were served Sailor style with white wine, thyme, cream and garlic, others were Thai style with chilli, lime and coconut.  This is very much a hands-on eating experience, as it should be with shellfish, and sharing is the order of the night.  No flimsy napkins here, messy hands is obligatory, but they do provide large bowls of hot water and lots of kitchen rolls to clean yourself up as you go.  


Bowls of skinny fries and tasty could cous cous salads arrived regularly, accompanied by water and of course the wine.

Garlic Prawns

Fresh Crab

Next course was sautéed prawns, again split into two flavour combinations; Garlic Shell-on Prawns and Spicy Peeled Prawns with ginger and chilli.  All the ingredients were fresh so the garlic and chilli really played their part in making these dishes burst with flavour. 


By this point we began to wonder what palate pleaser could be next and we were not disappointed when the waitress arrived, arms bearing copious amounts of meaty whole fresh crab. Prepared in fresh garlic butter and herbs, they were presented (overflowing) in the now familiar copper bowls. Plenty of claws to extract juicy meat from as well as the white and brown body meat which led to intense concentration as our ingenuity was tested to get the most out of these crustaceans. Always a challenge to get the entirety of the crabmeat out but no worries as they boxed up the rest for us to take home.

For the grand finale, we were blessed with pearly scallop shells encasing their sweet meat, vibrant coral roes attached. These had been lightly seared to perfection with an intense citrus butter which included lemon peel. The flavours were intense but mellow and buttery all at the same time and each scallop had been cooked just enough to seal its flavour yet maintain a soft, pillowy texture (something not easily obtained by any means). 

We sensed a slight Portuguese influence at The Wheelhouse with the copper (cataplana) bowls, the fresh high quality shellfish, and all round enthusiasm.  This was further reinforced by the presentation of complimentary Port tasters at the end of the meal.  It turns out that Tina has spent some time in Portugal and was impressed by the way they do this sort of food - who am I to argue?

Rivington Bar and Grill

Set in Rivington Street, near Old Street Tube in trendy Shoreditch is The Rivington Bar and Grill which is owned by Caprice Holdings (The Caprice,  The Ivy).  One of two in London (the other is in Greenwich) the Rivington Shoreditch offers traditional British fare beautifully crafted from fresh, often locally sourced, produce.  The surroundings are 'New York meets Berlin' with a range of Art Deco architectural styles and lots of street art.

 
We arrived for dinner at the start of the London weekend (Thursday evening), were greeted warmly at the door and encouraged to relax and have a drink at the bar, as our table "will not be going anywhere". I dislike being rushed in a restaurant so this was a positive start which continued as we studied the vast array of gins on offer, finally choosing after advice, and a few tastings, provided by the barman.  We opted for the Colonel Fox and Rock Rose with Fever Tree tonic. Colonel Fox London Gin is made to an 1859 recipe and is flavoured with juniper, coriander, angelica, cassia, liquorice and bitter orange peel. Rock Rose is prepared and hand distilled in the Scottish Highlands and is flavoured with Juniper, Rose Root, Sea Buckthorn and Rowan berries.

 We were seated in the restaurant area which is decorated with whitewashed walls, stripped wood floors and bespoke Deco lamps. The decor is simple with clean white tablecloths and warm lighting to create a relaxing environment which is contrasted by the incredible buzz of conversation and enjoyment.  Maybe not a place for a quiet romantic tete-a-tete but tables are far enough apart for a feeling of your own space.  Art figures large at The Rivington, as it does in the whole area, and we were close to Tracy Emin's neon 'Life Without You - Never '.

Tempura battered squid

 The menu is not complicated and there are several seafood choices on offer including, fresh oysters, tempura squid, battered haddock, scallop ceviche, monkfish masala, smoked eel and cod with mussels.

I opted to start with the Tempura battered Cornish Squid with Chilli Jam.  Superb light batter, the pure white squid was tender and flavoursome and enhanced by the tangy jam. This is not fine dining but high quality food prepared from fresh produce and expertly presented. Most of all its is delicious.

Scallops, haggis, tatties,  neeps

For main it was Seared Cornish Scallops, Haggis, Bacon, Tatties and Neeps.  This arrived as five individual scallop shells each of which contained the entire combination and delicious it was too.  A nice change from the traditional scallop perched on top of black pudding.  

 Rounded off with a bottle of Picpoul de Pinet this was a very pleasant evening and I look forward to another visit.

The Leconfield, Petworth

The Leconfield, Petworth, West Sussex

Leconfield Restaurant

We have been going to the Leconfield restaurant in Petworth, West Sussex since it first opened several years ago.  There have been many developments since that first visit.  Changes in house manager, chefs and staff training have lead to a better and better dining experience. One significant factor has been guidance from Pascal Proyart, Head Chef at One-o-One, which many (myself included) rate as the best seafood restaurant in London.


So I was really looking forward to dinner there last night.  Initial booking by telephone was pleasant and friendly and this theme continued when we arrived and were greeted by the House Manager and our waitress for the evening.  To our surprise we were told that they now had a new Head Chef who had started just one week before.  Previously Head Chef at The Aubergine restaurant in Marlow, Tim O'Shea now joins the team at the Leconfield and first impressions are very good.

Smoked Haddock Vichyssoise

Tim has managed to create new menus already and there was a sumptuous range on offer on the a la carte menu.  Not all seafood of course, but notable items included Carlingford Rock Oysters, Squid and Octopus Pancha and Baked Dover Sole.  However, we opted for the set menu which offered 2 courses for £25 or 3 courses for £30.  

Smoked haddock, potato, confit hen's egg

To start I ordered the Vichyssoise with Poached Haddock and New Potato. Traditionally this is a thick soup made from leeks, onions, potato, cream and chicken stock but Tim put a wonderful seafood slant to it.  The haddock was braised in milk beforehand and the milky fish-stock was added to the leek and potato mix.  Pieces of the braised haddock and new potato, together with confit hens egg, were presented on the soup plate and the Vichyssoise was added at the table.  The result was a cool, refreshing, creamy (but not rich) soup with subtle fish flavours.

Salmon Canneloni

Main course was the Salmon Cannelloni with Braised Fennel and Vermouth Cream.  Half of the salmon was whipped with cream into a smooth mousse before adding to the remainder in the canneloni.  Delicately braised fennel, star anise and the bold vermouth cream completed this meal perfectly to provide a delicate balance of firm flavours. 

Rounding off with the British and French Cheese with Fig Chutney and Fennel Lavash we enjoyed a lovely evening at the Leconfield.  Full marks for food and service; can this place get any better ? 

C-Bay Cafe/Bar/Bistro, Crantock, Cornwall

C-Bay Cafe/Bar/Bistro, Crantock, Cornwall

If you are staying in the Newquay area of Cornwall take a trip along from Fistral beach to the Pentire headland and walk down Riverside Avenue. Next to the cafe you will find a footpath which winds down through the mediterranean vegetation to the Gannel Estuary.  At low tide you can walk across the river (at high tide there is a small ferry) and on to the impressive expanse of yellow sand which is Crantock beach; voted Britain's best beach in 2014 by the Sunday Times.  Every kind of beach activity happens here from surfing to kiting to volleyball to hiking but the beach is large enough to accommodate everyone, with room to spare.  



For a nice lunch wander up the hill on the southern side to the C-Bay Cafe.  With amazing views over the beach and beyond they offer a wide range of meals and snacks in the daytime and evening.

We enjoyed their crispy crumb coated, smoked haddock fishcakes which were light and fluffy with a good flavour.  The moules mariniere were prepared in the traditional way with juicy, plump mussels in a tasty broth with white wine and fresh parsley. 

A very pleasant lunchtime. 

Hooked on the Rocks, Swanpool, Cornwall

Hooked on the Rocks, Swanpool, Cornwall

Hooked on the Rocks is a quick walk away from the bustle of Falmouth overlooking Swanpool beach with views across Falmouth estuary and over to Pendennis Castle.  They focus on fresh fish and shellfish with an emphasis on sustainability and local produce.  There is a rustic feel in Hooked, which is reminiscent of the superb fish restaurants in southern Portugal. It is not difficult to abide by the displayed house rules of  'relax, relax, relax' ! 

We were there for a light lunch and enjoyed 1/2 dozen local fresh rock oysters accompanied by a crisp Sauvignon Blanc to start.  This was followed by an equally fresh and tasty dressed crab with fries and salad on the side.  

Good food and good service.

Lewinnick Lodge, Newquay, Cornwall

Lewinnick Lodge, Newquay, Cornwall

Lewinnick Lodge Room with a View

Located on the Pentire Headland, with views to the open sea and back towards Fistral Beach, is the Lewinnick Lodge.  They describe themselves as a boutique restaurant with designer rooms, superb food and a view to take your breath away.  How can I argue with that as the Lewinnick has become our first choice place to stay when in Cornwall.  My perfect day is breakfast including Eggs Neptune (poached eggs with fresh crabmeat and Hollandaise), body boarding at Fistral (or Crantock) and a superb dinner at the Lewinnick restaurant - always with magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean. 

Their extensive menu offers, as you might expect, a range of seafood options, most of which incorporate fresh local produce.  Indeed it is the freshness and quality of the food which scores it very highly in my book.  

I will describe the some of the seafood options here but I can recommend first hand also some of the other dishes sampled including the flavoursome Cauliflower Cheese Soup and juicy Sirloin Steak (a steal at £19).

Cornish Sardines

Scallop Ceviche

One of the starters on the 'specials' menu was Scallop Ceviche.  Four raw fresh scallops which had been marinaded with chilli, red onion, smoked garlic oil, rocket peppers, coriander and lime. Presented with pomegranate seeds this light and succulent dish had subtle delicious flavours.
Another starter was the Grilled Cornish Sardines served with fennel, orange, grapefruit, pine nuts and salsa verde.  The citrus fruits cut nicely through the sardine oil in these beautifully fresh fish.  The sardine fishery in Cornwall has increased significantly in recent years probably as a result of sea temperature rise due to climate change.  Cornish sardines (Sardina pilchardus) is a pelagic (open water) fish which is classed as fully sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council. 

For main course which we enjoyed Pan Fried Cod Fillet with elderflower cream sauce, shallots, samphire, gnocchi, peas, clams and blackberries.  Translucent cod with crispy skin - it doesn't get any better. 

If you are looking for seafood (or meat) which is expertly prepared and served with a smile this has to be on your list.  The overall experience in the restaurant and rooms is second to none - friendly, helpful and great quality.

The Crab Shed, Salcombe, Devon

The Crab Shed, Salcombe, Devon

The Crab Shed in Salcombe

This rustic-style restaurant, situated near to the Fish Quay in Salcombe, has only been open a year but has already established a good reputation for fresh seafood, in particular crab and lobster.  This may not be surprising as the restaurant is perched over their own crab factory where they produce hand picked fresh crabmeat.  They also source fish and shellfish directly from the local boats.  As always, the key to the best seafood is freshness and quality and in these respects The Crab Shed hits the mark.




Whole fresh crab was an obvious choice here and we were not disappointed.  The large crab provided had been caught and cooked within the previous 24 hours.  The crab arrived prepared and on a bed of crisp, fresh mixed salad.  A side order of fries completed the meal !  At the Crab Shed they remove the brown and white body meat from their crabs and mix together before pressing back into the shell.  The claws are intact and contain the usual high quality white claw-meat.  This ensures that all the crabs served are of consistent quality and crammed with a generous portion of the freshest crabmeat. An alternative dish which we tried was the crabmeat on fresh bread with avocado and salad.  Again the emphasis was on quality and freshness of all the ingredients. If you want an unbeatable fresh crab experience then head down to The Crab Shed in Salcombe - you won't regret it.